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Review of the Front Runner PRO FORK MOUNT BIKE CARRIER / POWER EDITION
Transport your bike securely with the Front Runner PRO FORK MOUNT BIKE CARRIER / POWER EDITION, designed for durability and versatility.
I've tried almost every option available for securing my bikes to the truck, and Front Runner Pro Fork Mount Bike Carrier / Power Edition competes for the top spot with my Kuat NV 2.0 bike carrier combined with the Pivot 2. To get straight to the point, the Kuat is much quicker and easier to load and unload bikes, but in terms of security, I give the edge to the front runner. The main downside of the Kuat is that if I don't use the Pivot, I can't access the bed of my truck. However, when I do use the Pivot, it pushes the bikes so far away from my vehicle that it makes it difficult to maneuver in city scenarios and off-road. The off-road capabilities are maximized when using the front-runner setup.
This blog post delves into the specifications, design, and functionality of this sturdy bike carrier. Designed for those who prioritize durability, ease of use, and security, the Power Edition of this bike carrier ensures your ride stays safe no matter where your journey takes you.
Design and Build Quality
The Front Runner PRO FORK MOUNT BIKE CARRIER / POWER EDITION is constructed from high-grade aluminum, making it both lightweight and durable. The carrier’s sleek black powder-coated finish not only enhances its aesthetic appeal but also provides a protective layer against rust and wear, ensuring long-lasting use.
Fork Mount System
This bike carrier uses a fork mount system that offers superior stability during transport. By securing the bike’s front fork directly to the carrier, you reduce movement and prevent potential damage to the frame. The fork mount is compatible with all standard fork dropouts. This solution is not compatible with Boost Hubs/Forks.
So with the system, there are a couple of drawbacks that I want to bring your attention. First and most obvious is that you have to remove your front tire in order to mount this which means Just a heads-up about the bike carrier using a fork mount system. While it offers great stability during transport, there are a few drawbacks to consider. Firstly, you need to remove your front tire to mount it, so you have to find a place for the tire. If you have a pickup truck, you can put the tire in the bed, but it's best to secure it with straps to prevent bouncing around. Secondly, your bike frame isn't locked down with this system. You might be able to purchase an additional accessory to secure the frame through the fork mount, but I haven't looked into it. Personally, I use my Kryptonite New York 1210 Chain Lock to secure the frame to the bed rack, which has been effective without causing any clanking noise. Also, you now have to have a place to put the front tires. Since I have a pickup truck, I can simply place the items in the bed. However, I prefer to secure them to the bed rack using stratchits or straps to prevent them from bouncing around.
The second drawback is that your bike frame is not locked down. I'm not sure you might be able to buy a secondary accessory that does lock it through that fork mount but I honestly haven't done the research. What I have done is ran my Kryptonite New York 1210 Chain Lock through the frame and the bed rack itself. it works, but it doesn't clank around.
Ease of Installation
The Front Runner Pro Fork Mount Bike Carrier/Power Edition is designed for quick and easy installation. It comes with a universal mount that fits most roof racks, including the Front Runner Slimline II Bed Rack. The carrier's simple design makes it easy to install within minutes, which is perfect for cyclists needing a versatile and convenient solution.
Most of the time, I keep my Front Runner Rooftop Tent on the bed rack and use my car to carry the bikes on the back. Since I typically spend at least one night out when going on an adventure like this and using the bikes, it's more convenient for me. Switching it out is easy - the rooftop tent comes off in minutes thanks to the quick-release system, and then it only takes about 10 to 15 minutes to mount the bikes back up with the right tools.
Versatility and Compatibility
One of the standout features of the Power Edition is its versatility. Whether you're carrying a mountain bike, road bike, or an e-bike, this carrier can accommodate them all. Its adjustable clamps ensure a snug fit for a wide range of bike sizes and types. The rear wheel holder can accommodate all wheel sizes and widths from 700c x 23mm road wheels up to 26” x 4.5" fat bike tires.
Security Features
Security is a crucial factor when transporting valuable bikes. The Front Runner PRO FORK MOUNT BIKE CARRIER / POWER EDITION falls short in this aspect as it does not offer a direct way to secure your bike. While there may be options to purchase a locking fork quick release, I haven't explored this yet. Personally, I find it easy to use my Kryptonite New York 1210 Chain Lock, which I run through the frame and the bed rack. However, this method leaves the front wheels vulnerable. When in doubt, I place them in the bed of the truck or even in the cab.
Performance on the Road
The carrier performs exceptionally well, even at high speeds or on rough terrain. The fork mount system minimizes wobbling, ensuring that your bike remains stable throughout your journey. I've taken it on some challenging roads and have never had anything loosen up or scare me. One thing to note from personal experience is that if you have them mounted the same way I do, just remember they're on there when you go into a covered parking spot!
Maintenance and Durability
Maintaining the Front Runner PRO FORK MOUNT BIKE CARRIER / POWER EDITION is straightforward. Its aluminum construction is resistant to corrosion, and the powder-coated finish can be easily cleaned with mild soap and water. Regular checks on the mounting hardware will ensure the carrier continues to perform optimally for years. Honestly, it says close to set it and forget it as you can get.
Conclusion
The Front Runner PRO FORK MOUNT BIKE CARRIER / POWER EDITION is a superior choice for cyclists looking for a reliable, durable, and versatile bike transport solution. Its ability to accommodate a wide range of bikes, including e-bikes, coupled with its robust security features, makes it a standout in the market. Whether you’re a weekend warrior or a seasoned cyclist, this bike carrier delivers the performance and peace of mind you need.
BREAKDOWN OF MY SETUP
I have a 2019 Toyota Tacoma Off Road 4x4 Pickup with a short bed. I have FRO Roof Top Tent mounted on the FRO Slimline II Bed Rack with the Quick Release Tent Mount Kit. On the bottom sid of the rack, I have the FRO Pro Stainless Steel Camp Table installed. On the cab, I have the Slimsport Roof Rack Kit (Lightbar ready) with the 40" LED Slim Light Bar VX1000-CB SM / 12V/24V / Single Mount. I also have the Easy-Out Awning / 1.4M attached with the Quick Release Awning Mount Kit. For storage I have a set of Wolf Pack Pros and a Typhoon Bag that are tied down using Stratchits and Black Tie Down Rings. For hydration, I use the Pro Water Tank With Tap / 20L. I keep my food crispy cold in the Dometic CFX3 45 Cooler/Freezer and carry extra fuel with a 2G Rotopax attached with the Rotopax Rack Mounting Plate.
Exploring the Best Fly Fishing Spots on Arizona's Mogollon Rim: Canyon Creek
Join me on a fly fishing adventure along Arizona's Mogollon Rim, discovering hidden spots and abundant trout in the Canyon Creek area.
Once I dipped my toes into Canyon Creek on the Mogollon Rim, I couldn't resist diving in headfirst. My first taste left me craving more, but with only a brief window before sunset, I barely scratched the surface. Determined to unlock its secrets, I returned for a full day of fishing in the upper creek area, and boy, was it a day to remember.
With my trusty streamer setup—mini woolly buggers and a leech—I waded into the water, not knowing what to expect. To my surprise, the fish were practically jumping out of the water to grab my flies. Watching a brown trout smash my woolly bugger right at the surface was a sight I won't soon forget.
Of course, my curiosity led me downstream to lower Canyon Creek, where things got a bit more challenging. Navigating around the barbed wire fencing was a hassle, but I couldn't resist exploring further. Despite the thick brush and tricky banks, I couldn't seem to find the right spots. Still, I glimpsed some promising holes that I'm sure are hiding some real monsters.
Eager for more adventure, I set out to find Willow Creek Springs. Let me tell you, it wasn't easy to locate with no clear directions, but after some searching, I stumbled upon it. The creek was tiny, like, barely wider than my arm in some spots, but it opened up into these beautiful pools filled with fish. I struggled a bit with the fishing, especially as the sun started to set and my shadow gave me away, but the tranquility of the surroundings made it all worth it.
In the end, Canyon Creek and its neighboring waters offer not just great fishing, but a chance to lose yourself in nature's beauty. Each trip brings new challenges and surprises, and I can't wait to see what else these landscapes have in store for me.
The Art of Fly Fishing for Carp: Essential Flies and Techniques
Master the art of fly fishing for carp with essential flies and techniques. Catch these elusive freshwater giants with precision and skill.
Fly fishing for carp has emerged as an exhilarating pursuit, attracting anglers with the challenge and excitement it offers. Carp, known for their power and elusiveness, require specific techniques and the right fly selection for successful angling. In this article, we will delve into the essential flies you should have in your tackle box and explore the techniques that will help you master the art of fly fishing for carp.
Understanding Carp
Before we dive into the flies and techniques, it's crucial to understand the behavior and feeding patterns of carp. These freshwater "ghosts" inhabit a range of environments and feed on insects, crustaceans, and other small organisms. Observing their behavior and preferred habitats will aid in fly selection and identifying productive fishing spots.
Choose the Right rod for Carp
When it comes to selecting a rod for fly fishing for carp, it's important to consider the strength, weight, and casting ability required to handle these powerful freshwater fish. A medium to heavy-weight fly rod is recommended, typically falling within the 7 to 9 weight range. This range provides the necessary backbone to cast larger flies and the strength to handle the carp's intense runs and fights.
A slightly stiffer rod will help you make accurate casts and have better control over your presentation. Additionally, a rod with a fast or medium-fast action is beneficial as it offers more power for casting distance and can handle the weight of larger flies. Investing in a high-quality rod with a reliable reel seat and guides will ensure durability and smooth performance. By choosing the appropriate rod, you'll have the necessary tool to handle the challenges of fly fishing for carp and increase your chances of landing these impressive fish.
Essential Flies for Carp Fishing
Woolly Bugger: This versatile fly mimics various food sources and comes in sizes ranging from #4 to #8. Choose colors like olive, black, or brown to match the natural prey of carp.
Crayfish Patterns: Carp are fond of crayfish, so having crayfish imitations is vital. Flies such as the Clouser Crayfish, Carp Bitters, or Carp Teaser in sizes #4 to #8, resembling brown or rusty orange crayfish, work well. Bass Pro sells a carp teaser kit worth checking out.
Nymphs: Select nymph patterns that imitate aquatic insects and crustaceans. Flies like Hare's Ear Nymphs, Pheasant Tail Nymphs, or Czech Nymphs in sizes #10 to #16 can prove effective in enticing carp.
Scuds and Shrimp Patterns: Carp often feed on scuds and small shrimp in shallow waters. Flies such as the Carp Shrimp, Sow Bug, or Scud patterns in sizes #12 to #16 can be effective choices.
Carp-specific Flies: Specialized flies like the Carp Crack, Carp Carrot, or Carp Damsel are designed specifically for carp fishing. These flies incorporate unique features to entice carp and come in various sizes and colors.
Techniques for Carp Fly Fishing
Spotting Carp: Look for signs of carp activity, such as tailing, bubbling, or disturbances in the water. Polarized sunglasses are invaluable in spotting these elusive fish.
Stealth and Approach: Carp are incredibly wary, so practice stealth and avoid making sudden movements or noises. Move slowly and maintain a low profile to prevent spooking them.
Accurate Casting: Develop casting accuracy to present your fly precisely. Cast in front of the carp, allowing the fly to settle naturally before initiating your retrieve.
Strip-Set Hooking: When a carp takes the fly, use a strip-set technique instead of lifting the rod. Strip the line with a firm pull to set the hook firmly in the carp's mouth.
Play and Land with Caution: Carp are powerful fighters, so be prepared for a challenging battle. Allow the fish to make runs while exerting gentle pressure to tire it out. Patience is key during the landing process.
Wrapping it all up
Fly fishing for carp requires a combination of effective flies and well-honed techniques. By incorporating essential flies like Woolly Buggers, crayfish patterns, nymphs, scuds, and carp-specific flies, you can imitate their natural prey and entice strikes. Additionally, employing techniques such as spotting carp, stealthy approaches, accurate casting, strip-set hooking, and cautious play will increase your chances of success.
Remember to respect the fishery, practice catch-and-release, and relish the tranquility of nature while pursuing these formidable freshwater adversaries. So, gear up with the right flies and techniques, and embark on an exciting journey into the captivating world of carp fly fishing.
The Adventure Dispatch
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The Adventure Dispatch 〰️
The Best Outdoor Clothing Brands for 2024
Discover unbeatable deals on Patagonia winter essentials at the REI Outlet sale! Get up to 40% off on jackets, parkas, and more.
Embarking on an outdoor adventure demands the right gear, and when it comes to hiking, backpacking, and camping, having the best outdoor clothing is non-negotiable. The market is flooded with options, but certain brands stand out for their durability, functionality, and style. In this guide, we'll dive into the realms of Patagonia, Kuhl, Arc'teryx, REI Co-op, and Outdoor Research, uncovering the best products each has to offer for your next escapade into the great outdoors.
Patagonia: Sustainably Stylish
When it comes to environmentally conscious outdoor clothing, Patagonia is a trailblazer. Known for its commitment to sustainability, Patagonia crafts high-quality gear that not only withstands the elements but also treads lightly on the planet.
Nano Puff Jacket
One of Patagonia's iconic offerings, the Nano Puff Jacket, combines lightweight warmth with compressibility. Perfect for unpredictable weather, this jacket is filled with PrimaLoft Gold insulation, ensuring you stay cozy even in wet conditions. Its eco-friendly credentials are enhanced by its recycled materials, making it a standout choice for the environmentally conscious hiker. Buy Now at REI
Torrentshell 3L Jacket
For those who embrace the unpredictable nature of the outdoors, the Torrentshell 3L Jacket is a game-changer. Waterproof and breathable, this jacket features a 3-layer H2No Performance Standard shell, keeping you dry without sacrificing comfort. It's the ideal companion for backpackers who demand reliable protection against the elements. Buy at REI
Kuhl: Rugged Comfort Redefined
Kuhl takes outdoor clothing to a new level by combining rugged durability with unmatched comfort. Designed for those who seek adventure off the beaten path, Kuhl's products are as tough as the terrain you'll traverse.
Radikl Pant
Versatility and comfort merge seamlessly in the Radikl Pant from Kuhl. Designed for maximum mobility, these pants feature innovative panels and a gusseted crotch, ensuring unrestricted movement on the trail. With a stylish design and durable construction, the Radikl Pant is a go-to choice for hikers and backpackers who prioritize both comfort and functionality. Buy at REI
Interceptr Hoodie
For chilly nights around the campfire or early morning hikes, the Interceptr Hoodie from Kuhl delivers warmth without sacrificing style. Its unique Alfpaca Gold fleece provides superior insulation, and the articulated sleeves ensure unrestricted movement. Stay warm and agile with this essential layer. Buy at REI
Verbier/switzerland- 09.09-18 : Arcteryx mountain clothe boutique shop sport
Arc'teryx: Cutting-Edge Performance
When it comes to cutting-edge technology and performance, Arc'teryx is a frontrunner in the outdoor apparel industry. Known for its precision engineering, Arc'teryx products are crafted to excel in the most demanding environments.
Beta AR Jacket
For those facing harsh weather conditions, the Beta AR Jacket from Arc'teryx is the pinnacle of protection. This Gore-Tex Pro shell provides exceptional waterproofing and breathability, making it a reliable choice for serious hikers and backpackers. With a helmet-compatible hood and reinforced high-wear areas, this jacket is designed for the toughest adventures. Buy now at REI
Atom LT Hoody
This is a staple piece in my backpacking kit. Balancing warmth and breathability, the Atom LT Hoody is a versatile mid-layer for outdoor enthusiasts. Its Coreloft insulation retains heat even when wet, and the lightweight design makes it easy to pack. Whether worn alone on cool days or as part of a layering system in colder conditions, this hoody adapts to your needs. Buy Now at REI
REI Co-op: Affordable Quality
For outdoor enthusiasts on a budget, REI Co-op offers a range of affordable yet high-quality options. Whether you're a seasoned backpacker or a weekend camper, REI Co-op has you covered.
Rainier Rain Jacket
When unexpected rain threatens your adventure, the Rainier Rain Jacket from REI Co-op is your reliable shield. Waterproof and breathable, this jacket features a durable water repellent (DWR) finish to keep you dry in a downpour. Its affordable price point makes it an excellent choice for those seeking dependable rain protection without breaking the bank. Buy Now at REI
Sahara Convertible Pants
Embrace changing weather with the Sahara Convertible Pants from REI Co-op. These pants seamlessly transform into shorts, adapting to the ever-changing conditions of the trail. With UPF 50+ sun protection and a durable, quick-drying fabric, they are a practical and budget-friendly choice for hikers and backpackers. Buy Now at REI
Outdoor Research: Technical Excellence
Outdoor Research brings technical excellence to outdoor clothing, ensuring durability and performance in challenging conditions.Vigor Grid Fleece Pullover Hoodie
Engineered for optimal warmth and flexibility, the Vigor Grid Fleece Pullover Hoodie from Outdoor Research is a technical marvel. Ideal for layering or standalone use, this hoodie offers superior insulation and breathability. With a focus on technical excellence, it's a must-have for those seeking comfort and performance on the trail. Buy Now at REI
Ferrosi Pants
The Ferrosi Pants from Outdoor Research combine rugged durability with exceptional breathability. Ideal for a wide range of outdoor activities, these pants provide freedom of movement and versatility on the trail. With reinforced panels and a weather-resistant build, the Ferrosi Pants are a reliable choice for the adventurous spirit. Buy Now at REI
Conclusion
Choosing the best outdoor clothing for hiking, backpacking, and camping involves a careful balance of durability, functionality, and style. Whether you prioritize sustainability like Patagonia, rugged comfort like Kuhl, cutting-edge performance like Arc'teryx, affordability like REI Co-op, or high-performance essentials like Columbia Sportswear, each brand offers a unique blend of features to enhance your outdoor experience. Remember, the best gear is the gear that suits your adventure style, so gear up and hit the trail with confidence!
Fly Fishing Terms You'd Better Know
The first thing to know about fly fishing is that you will always be learning. It's part of the beauty of the sport. Always refreshing old ideas, picking up new tricks, and slowing down to let in some knowledge.
The first thing to know about fly fishing is that you will always be learning. It's part of the beauty of the sport. Always refreshing old ideas, picking up new tricks, and slowing down to let in some knowledge. I have scoured the internet and a couple of books to pull out all of the terms that I can think of to compile into this list. In all honesty, it was a practice of learning myself.
A
Anadromous Fish: Fish that are born in freshwater, migrate to saltwater to grow, and return to freshwater to spawn, such as salmon and steelhead.
Arbor: The center part of a fly reel where first backing and then line is wound (see Large Arbor, Standard Arbor, Mid-Arbor).
Arbor knot: A knot used for tying backing to the arbor of the fly reel.
B
Back Cast: In fly fishing, casting is a back-and-forth motion of the rod and line that allows you to place your fly where you’d like. The back cast is when your rod and line are behind you.
Backing: An added braided line that connects the reel’s spool to the fly line. Since fly lines average 75-115 feet in length, the lines require backing for those adrenaline-charged times when a large fish runs out all of the regular fly line.
Barb: The backward facing projection cut into a hook.
Barbless: Barbless hooks are either manufactured without a barb or the barb is squeezed down using hemostats or pliers. ‘Going barbless’ makes it easier to remove a hook and minimizes the handling and potential damage to a fish you intend to release.
Beadhead: A style of fly utilizing a bead immediately behind the hook eye. Some beads help a fly sink, but others are floaters.
Blank: A hollow rod is called a blank. It has no guides, ferrules, or reel seat. Fly rods are produced by wrapping sheets of fiberglass and graphite material around a carefully tapered steel rod (called a mandrel).
Blood Knot: The most widely used knot for tying two pieces of monofilament with similar diameters together; the best knot for construction of a knotted tapered leader.
Break off: A break off is that heartbreaking moment when an unusually strong or large fish snaps the line, typically due to an undersized tippet or worn leader, or a poorly tied knot.
Butt section: 1) the thicker end of a tapered leader that is tied to the fly line and 2) the last section of a rod, at the end of the handle.
C
Caddis: One of the three most important aquatic insects imitated by fly fishers – the other two being mayflies and midges – found worldwide in all freshwater habitats. The adult resembles a moth when in flight; at rest, the wings are folded in a tent shape down the back. The most important aquatic state of the caddis is the pupa, which is its emerging stage (see Larva, Pupa, and Emerger).
Cast: This is the motion you make when you collectively 'throw' a fly rod, reel, and line. There are different types of casting for different fishing applications. (See Back Cast, Overhead Cast, River Load Cast, Roll Cast, Water Tension Cast).
Casting arc: The path that the fly rod follows during a complete cast.
Catch and release: A practice within fly fishing intended as a technique of conservation. Fish should be fought quickly and never allowed to tire to the point of exhaustion to prevent injury or death. After capture, the fish is unhooked using wet hands – or no touching if possible – and forceps and returned to the water as quickly as possible. If necessary, resuscitate by pointing the fish's head upstream into the current and waiting until it swims off under its own power.
Chironomid: A scientific name for the members of the Diptera family of insects commonly known as midges. In the pupae stage, they typically appear to be small aquatic worms. In addition to caddis and mayflies, one of the most important insects in a trout's diet.
Click Drag (or Click & Pawl Reel): A mechanical system on a fly reel used to slow down or resist the pulling efforts of a fish, so as to slow the fish down and tire it to the point where it can be landed.
Clinch Knot: A universally used knot for attaching a hook, lure, swivel, or fly to the leader or line; a slight variation results in the Improved Clinch Knot, which is an even stronger knot for the above uses.
Cone Head: Same as a beadhead, but the bead is cone-shaped.
Covering (or Delivery): Used to describe the action of casting the fly to a fish or into a promising-looking area of water.
Current Seam (or Seam): Current seams are formed by the nature of current flow. Usually, the middle of a river or stream contains the fastest flow with its edges having slower flows due to friction with the bank and the streambed obstacles. A stream channel’s curvature redirects its heaviest flow away from the remainder of the stream creating current seams.
D
Damselfly: An important still water aquatic insect most commonly imitated in the nymphal form, with hatches usually occurring in early to mid-summer. Adult looks similar to a dragonfly but smaller and folds its wings along its back when at rest.
Dead Drift: A perfect float in which the fly is traveling at the same pace as the current, used in both dry fly and nymph fishing (see Mending Line and “S” Cast).
Delivery (or Covering): Used to describe the action of casting the fly to a fish or into a promising-looking area of water.
Disc Drag: A mechanical system on more expensive fly reels intended to efficiently slow and tire a fish that is taking line. Resistance is created between discs that apply pressure as line is pulled from the reel. Different from the click drag, the disc drag is smoother and less likely to create a sudden stopping resistance that will break the line.
Dorsal Fin: The fin on the back of a fish, sometimes divided into two or three partly or entirely separate sections.
Double Haul: In this cast the fly fisher quickly pulls and releases the line on both the back cast and the forward cast. It is used to create greater line speed, enabling the caster to reach farther or cut through wind.
Double Taper (DT): A standard fly line design in which both ends of the line are tapered, while the greater portion or “belly” of the line is level. An excellent line for short to moderate-length casts and for roll casting, but not as well suited for distance casts.
Drag: (1) An unnatural motion of the fly caused by the effect of the current on line and leader. Drag is usually detrimental, though at times useful – such as imitating the actions of the adult caddis. (2) Resistance applied to the reel spool to prevent it from turning faster than the line leaving the spool (used in playing larger fish).
Drag-Free Drift: This is accomplished when you minimize the effect of the current flow on the fly. This is equally important when fishing dry flies or nymphs. Trout are more likely to take food moving at the same speed as naturals being carried by the current and may even be spooked by flies moving too fast or too slow.
Drift: Four types of drifts: Straight upstream from you, upstream and across from you, downstream and across from you, straight downstream from you (see Fishing the Drift).
Dropper: A practice of fishing two flies at the same time, often one on the surface and a second underwater. A classic combo like the ‘Hopper-Dropper’ features a dry fly grasshopper pattern with a small nymph or emerger pattern tied off the bend of the hook. A dropper effectively doubles your chances of finding which type of insect and imitation fly the fish are keying on.
Dry Fly: Any fly fished upon the surface of the water, usually constructed of non-water-absorbent materials. Dry flies are most commonly used to imitate the adult stage of aquatic insects.
Dry Fly Floatant: Chemical preparation that is applied to a dry fly to waterproof it immediately before use; may be a paste, liquid, or aerosol.
Dun: (1) First stage in the adult mayfly’s life cycle, usually of short duration of 1 to 24 hours. This is the stage most often imitated by the dry fly. (2) A darkish gray-blue color that is very desirable in some fly tying materials.
E
Eddy: An area of water that is less turbulent than the surrounding currents, often found at the edges of a current or where two streams converge.
Elbow Control: The concept of maintaining a consistent level with your elbow during the overhead and roll casts. By holding your elbow in a steady plane, you can achieve a tight, wind-cutting loop that accurately delivers the line to your target. This is facilitated by adopting a proper stance that allows your upper body to pivot freely, ensuring a constant elbow position.
Emerger: Referring to aquatic insects, the term "emerging" describes the phase when a nymph reaches the water's surface and transforms into an adult. The emergence of the nymph is a crucial period for fly fishers to imitate, as it represents a significant food source for fish.
F
False Cast: A fundamental fly fishing cast used to adjust line length, change direction, and dry off the fly. This cast involves continuously moving the line backward and forward without allowing it to touch the water or ground (see Casting Arc, Back Cast, and Forward Cast).
Ferrule: A collar that connects the sections of a fly rod. One section fits inside another in an overlapping manner at the ferrule, providing the connection between rod sections.
Fingerling: A small and immature fish, such as a juvenile trout.
Fishing the Drift: The process of fishing from your target point to where you plan to pick up the line for the next cast. By strategically positioning yourself during the initial cast, you can achieve a longer drift, maximizing your chances of enticing a fish.
Fish Ladder: A series of interconnected pools constructed alongside a river obstruction, like a dam, to enable salmon and other fish to swim upstream.
Floatant: A water-resistant salve, cream, or substance used to help flies, leaders, and fly lines float on the water's surface.
Floating Fly Line: The most versatile type of fly line that remains buoyant throughout its length (see Double Taper, Level, Shooting Head, Weight Forward).
Fluorocarbon: Tippet or leader material with near-invisibility underwater, quick sinking properties, and minimal light reflection on the water's surface, making it harder for fish to detect.
Fly: An artificial lure hand-tied to resemble natural insects or baitfish, designed to attract fish. Flies incorporate various natural and synthetic materials secured onto hooks.
Fly Casting: The technique of presenting a fly to a target using a fly rod and fly line, involving various casting methods (see Back Cast, Forward Cast, False Cast, Roll Cast, "S" Cast, and Shooting Line).
Fly Line: Specially designed line for fly fishing, consisting of a tapered plastic coating over a braided Dacron or nylon core. Fly lines are available in different tapers and styles, including floating, sinking, and sink-tip lines (see Double Taper, Shooting Head, Weight Forward, Sink-tip, and Floating Fly Line).
Fly Pattern: Also known as a "recipe," it refers to the predetermined arrangement of materials and the arrangement of parts that make up an artificial fly.
Fly Reel: A reel used in fly fishing to hold the fly line.
Fly Rod: A specialized fishing rod designed for casting a fly line. Fly rods differ from other types of rods in that the reel is attached at the butt of the rod, with the rod handle always positioned above the reel. Fly rods typically have more line guides than other types of rods of the same length. They are available in various lengths, commonly ranging from 7 to 9 feet. Materials used in fly rod construction include bamboo, fiberglass, and graphite.
Fly Tying: The process of handcrafting fishing flies using threads and a combination of natural and synthetic materials.
Forceps: Hand-operated medical instruments widely used in fly fishing to remove flies from a hooked fish's mouth. These instruments, also called hemostats, feature smooth or lightly serrated jaws with a ratchet-locking mechanism to securely hold the hook until released.
Forward (or Power) Stroke: In fly fishing, the forward cast or stroke refers to the motion of propelling the rod and line in front of the caster towards the target. To execute a powerful forward stroke, maintain a consistent plane with your forearm, wrist, upper arm, and shoulder throughout the cast. Drive the entire arm forward, loading the rod, until the rod tip reaches the ten o'clock position. Then, allow the rod tip to drift down slightly while releasing the line with your non-casting hand, propelling the line toward the target (see Power Stroke).
Forward Taper: (see Weight Forward).
Foul Hook: To accidentally hook a fish anywhere other than in its mouth.
Freestone: A type of river or stream characterized by a significant gradient, resulting in medium to fast-moving water. While the upper sections of a freestone stream may be spring-fed, the majority of its flow comes from run-off or tributaries. Due to the swift current, the growth of weeds or vegetation is limited, resulting in a "Free Stone" bottom. Freestone streams are generally less fertile than spring creeks, with smaller and less diverse populations of aquatic insects. The faster water and fewer insect populations make trout in freestone streams more opportunistic feeders.
Fry: The initial stage of a fish's life after hatching from an egg.
G
Gel-spun polyethylene: A synthetic fiber with exceptional thinness, suppleness, slipperiness, abrasion resistance, and strength. This material is often used as braided fly line backing when a large amount of backing is required and reel space is limited.
Graphite: The most widely used material for constructing fishing rods today. Graphite offers an ideal balance of weight, strength, and flexibility, making it the preferred choice for rod building.
Gravel Guards: Flaps attached to each leg of waders that hook over wading boots, providing additional security for the waders and preventing debris from entering the boots. Modern waders often feature built-in gravel guards with elastic bottoms and hooks to keep the wader legs in place.
Grip: The handle of a fly rod made of cork rings shaped in various styles, including cigar grip, full-wells grip, and half-wells grip. To grip the rod properly, locate the balance point by resting the rod on the edge of the index finger with the reel pointing downward. The balance point is usually about 1/4 to 1/2 inch back from the front of the cork grip on most rods.
H
Hatch: An occurrence where a significant number of flies of the same species are present.
Haul: A technique of pulling the fly line with the non-casting hand to increase line speed and achieve greater casting distance. The haul is particularly effective during line pickup (see Double Haul).
Headwaters: The upstream section of a river before its main tributaries join it. Typically, the headwaters are narrower and have lower flow compared to the main section of the river.
Hemostat: A clamp or forceps used by fly fishermen to remove flies from the mouths of trout.
Hook: The fundamental component on which a fly is tied. Hooks are made of steel wire and come in different designs, including bronzed, cadmium-coated, and stainless. The choice of hook style depends on the type of fly being tied. Hook sizes range from tiny to large and are standardized based on the gap or gape, which is the distance between the hook shank and the hook point.
Hook Keeper: A loop of thin wire built into the shaft of a fly rod near the grip. The hook keeper securely holds the fly while it is still attached to the line, preventing the loss of the fly to streamside foliage and grasses when moving to the next fishing spot.
I
Imitative Flies: Flies tied to closely resemble specific insects. These imitative flies are highly effective when targeting finicky trout in clear, fertile, slow-moving streams with abundant populations of aquatic insects.
Impressionistic Flies: Flies tied to loosely suggest a variety of insects or insect families. These impressionistic flies are often most effective in streams with medium to fast-moving water and less dense populations of aquatic insects.
Improved Clinch Knot: One of the most widely used fishing knots, providing a reliable method for securing a fishing line to a hook, lure, or swivel.
Indicator (or Strike Indicator): A floating object placed on the leader or end of the fly line to indicate when a fish takes the fly or to track the drift of the fly. Strike indicators, made of materials like floating putty, poly yarn (treated with floatant), foam, or rubber, are especially useful when nymph fishing with a slack line.
K
Knotless Tapered Leader: A fly fishing leader made entirely from a single piece of monofilament, without any knots or sections of different diameter materials.
Knotted Leader: A fly fishing leader constructed by knotting together sections of different diameter leader material, resulting in a tapered leader. The most common knots used to construct such leaders are the Blood Knot and Surgeon's Knot (see Blood Knot, Surgeon's Knot, Leader, Tapered Leader, Leader Material).
L
Large Arbor: Compared to the narrow arbor of a standard fly reel, the large arbor reel has a wider diameter in the line-holding area. This design difference significantly increases the line retrieve rate, allowing fly fishers to quickly strip off long lengths of slack line for casting and retrieve line efficiently when playing a fish or changing fishing spots. The larger coils of line from a large arbor reel also contribute to smoother casting with fewer tangles. Additionally, the drag system of a large arbor reel works more effectively, as the effective spool diameter remains nearly constant while the fish pulls out line.
Larva: The immature and aquatic stage of caddis and certain other insects. Many caddis larva species construct a protective covering of fine gravel or debris during this stage. Larvae are bottom-dwelling and do not swim.
Lay Down (after the pick-up): A fly fishing cast executed with a single back cast. After lifting the line from the water, a back cast is made, followed by a forward cast that allows the line to straighten and settle on the water, completing the cast (see Pickup).
Leader: The section of monofilament line between the fly line and the fly. Leaders are usually tapered to deliver the fly gently and away from the fly line. (see Knotted Leader, Knotless Tapered Leader, Turn-over, and Monofilament).
Lie: Areas in a river or lake where fish reside. Optimal lies are typically found outside the main current, providing cover from predators or offering an abundant supply of insects and other food sources.
Line Weight: The weight of the first 30 feet of a fly line determines the line weight of a rod or reel. This standardized measurement system ensures proper matching of fly lines to rods of different flexibilities. Line weights are not linear; for example, the first 30 feet of a #6 weight line weighs 160 grains, while the first 30 feet of a #3 weight line weighs 100 grains.
Loading the Rod: When executing a forward or backward cast, the weight of the line bends the rod, storing the energy necessary for the subsequent cast.
Loop to Loop: A connection method between a fly line and a leader, achieved by creating a loop at the end of the leader using a Perfection Loop knot and attaching it to a loop at the end of the fly line. Loop-to-loop connections are sometimes used between a leader and a tippet.
M
Matching The Hatch: The practice of selecting an artificial fly that closely resembles the color, size, shape, and behavior of natural insects that fish are feeding on at a specific time. During a hatch, when fish become selective, it is crucial to choose flies that mimic the predominant insects to increase the chances of success.
Mayfly: Found in cold or cool freshwater environments, mayflies are the most commonly imitated aquatic insects worldwide. Many dry fly and nymph patterns are designed to imitate these insects. Mayflies spend approximately one year in the nymph stage and only one to three days as adults. The adult mayfly has one pair of upright wings, giving it the appearance of a small sailboat.
Mid-Arbor: Referring to the size of the area on a reel that holds the fly line, a mid-arbor reel is an intermediate option between a standard arbor reel and a large arbor reel. A mid-arbor design provides a balance of line capacity, rapid retrieve, and reduced line coiling compared to a standard arbor reel.
Minimizing Stream Current Drag: By mending the line, which involves throwing a loop of line into the drifting line, the angler can minimize the effect of current drag. This technique helps the line move at the same speed as the current, reducing unwanted drag. The appropriate mends may include upstream, downstream, or a series of "S" mends, depending on the cast and drift situation.
Mending Line: A method used after the line is on the water to achieve a drag-free float. It involves flipping or making a series of flips with the rod tip, creating a horseshoe-shaped bow in the line. This technique slows down the line's drift if mended upstream or speeds it up if mended downstream. For example, when casting across the flow of the stream and facing faster current on the angler's side, an upstream mend is necessary to slow down the line's drift downstream. This allows the line to better match the speed of the fly in the slower water on the far side of the main current.
Monofilament: A supple and transparent nylon filament used in various types of fishing. It is available in different breaking strengths and diameters and is commonly used in fly fishing (see Breaking Strength).
N
Nail Knot: A method of attaching a leader or butt section of monofilament to the fly line and attaching the backing to the fly line. This knot is commonly tied using a small diameter tube, such as a section of a plastic coffee stirrer, instead of an actual nail.
Narrow Loop: As the fly line travels through the air, it should form a narrow loop to minimize wind resistance. A narrow loop resembles the letter "U" turned on its side and is achieved by using a narrow casting arc.
Nymph: The immature form of insects. In fly fishing, the focus is primarily on the nymphs of aquatic insects, as they serve as a vital food source for fish.
Nymphing: The method of fishing with imitation nymph patterns, typically weighted flies and added split-shot on the leader, to target fish actively feeding on nymphs. When observing trout in riffles or shallow areas of a river, anglers wearing polarized glasses may spot the flash of a feeding trout attempting to dislodge nymphs from rocks or swiftly moving to take naturals drifting with the current.
O
Open Loop: The characteristic cast where the loop "opens" as it moves through the air. An open loop is often caused by an excessively wide casting arc, resulting in increased wind resistance and decreased accuracy.
Overhead Cast: The classic fly rod cast commonly associated with fly fishing. It is used for presenting a variety of fly types, including nymphs, streamers, wet flies, and dry flies. The basic overhead cast consists of five parts: Pause, Pickup, Back Cast, Power or Forward Stroke, and Shooting the Line.
P
Palming: The technique of gently applying the palm of the hand against the spool edge of a fly reel to help slow down the release of line when fighting a large fish.
Pause: The moment just before starting the pickup. Allowing a brief pause gives the river current a chance to straighten the line below the angler, making the pickup easier. The angler can strip some line toward themselves and hold it in their non-casting hand in loose coils or larger coils at their feet if making longer casts. This retrieved line will be used for shooting toward the target.
Pectoral Fins: The pair of fins located just behind the head of a fish.
Pelvic Fins: The pair of fins on the lower body of a fish, also known as ventral fins.
Perfection Loop: A knot frequently used to create a loop in a piece of monofilament, often found at the butt end of a leader for loop-to-loop connections.
Pickup (and Lay Down): This part involves lifting the fly line off the water by moving the hand, wrist, forearm, and upper arm in an upward arc. Then, bending the elbow and initiating a backward motion with the wrist, forearm, and upper arm while rotating at the shoulder. This motion picks up the line and initiates the back cast over the angler's shoulder (see Lay Down).
Polarized Sunglasses: Sunglasses equipped with polarized lenses that block incident light or glare, enabling anglers to better see beneath the surface glare of the water. Polarized sunglasses are an essential accessory for fly anglers to improve their ability to spot fish.
Pool: A section of a river or stream characterized by slower currents and increased depth, providing fish with protection from predators and a place to rest from swimming against heavier currents, particularly during spawning migrations.
Presentation: The act of casting the fly on the water and offering it to the fish. The objective is to present the fly in a manner similar to the natural insect or food form being imitated. There is a wide variety of presentation techniques, which vary with each fishing situation.
Pupa: The transition stage between the larva and adult of an insect. In fly fishing, caddis pupa are particularly important.
R
Reach Cast: A casting technique used to add extra slack in the line, particularly when fishing downstream, to achieve a more natural drift.
Redd: A depression scooped in the sand or gravel of a riverbed by spawning trout or salmon as a spawning area.
Reel Seat: A mechanism on a fly rod that securely holds the reel in place, typically using locking metal rings or sliding bands.
Retrieve: The act of bringing the fly back towards the angler after the cast. The retrieve can be done in various ways, but it's important to keep the rod tip low and pointed straight down the line.
Riffle: A section of the river with quickened water flow over smaller rocks or gravel, usually located at the head or tail of a pool. Riffles can be productive fishing spots, especially when using two-fly rigs or nymphs.
Riparian: Pertaining to anything related to, inhabiting, or situated on a riverbank, often used in the context of ownership and fishing rights.
Rise: The pattern created by a trout as it takes a fly. Different rise forms, such as sipping rise, jumping rise, and tailing rise, indicate specific feeding behaviors of the trout.
River Load Cast (or Water Tension Cast): A casting motion or technique that utilizes the current of the river to load the fly rod. By pointing the rod down towards the water and making a sidearm motion against the current, the force of the river's current and the angler's motion generate rod load.
Rocks: Obstructions in the river, such as large rocks, provide breaks in the current and offer cover for fish. Fish often hold in front of or behind rocks to feed and conserve energy.
Rod Flex: The manner in which the fly rod bends during the cast, particularly during the acceleration phases. Rods can be categorized as tip-flex, mid-flex, or full-flex based on where they primarily bend.
Roll Cast: A fundamental casting technique used in fly fishing. It can be employed for short to medium distances and is often used to pick up the line from the water's surface. A properly executed roll cast can deliver small dry flies to large nymphs.
Run: A section of the river where the water flows between a bank and a rock or between two rocks. Runs can vary in speed from fast to slow. Trout often hold against the side of rocks in runs.
S
"S" Cast: A casting technique used to introduce deliberate and controlled slack into the line, primarily to achieve a drag-free float and in conjunction with mending line (see Drag, Dead Drift, Mending Line).
Scud: A small crustacean resembling a freshwater shrimp, commonly found in trout waters and serving as a significant food source for trout. It is particularly prevalent in spring creeks.
Seam (Current Seam): (see Current Seam)
Seam Water: The area where two different currents converge, typically one slower and one faster. This area is ideal for holding trout, as they can stay in the slower flow and dart out into the faster current to feed. Look for seam water near islands or where large rocks divert part of the main flow.
Sea-run: Trout that hatch in freshwater, migrate to the sea to mature, and return to freshwater to spawn are known as sea-run trout. Species such as browns, cutthroats, and rainbows exhibit this behavior. Rainbow trout in the Pacific Northwest and Great Lakes are well-known examples, often referred to as steelhead.
Setting the Hook: The action of pulling the hook into the fish's mouth to secure a solid connection. The amount of force required for a successful hook set varies depending on factors such as hook size, fish species, and leader strength. Anglers often make the mistake of striking too hard when targeting trout and warm water fish, and not hard enough when pursuing salmon and saltwater fish.
Shank: The elongated and straight section of the hook between the eye and the bend.
Shooting Line: The technique of extending the length of the fly cast by releasing additional fly line (usually held in the non-casting hand) during the forward/presentation part of the cast. This method enables anglers to false cast with a shorter line and shoot a longer line when making the final forward cast. It is particularly useful for achieving longer casts with minimal effort.
Shooting Taper (ST or Shooting Head): A type of fly line with a short, single-tapered design, primarily used for longer casts with minimal effort. Shooting heads allow anglers to switch between different line types (floating, sinking, sink-tip, etc.) by quickly interchanging the head sections. They are commonly used for salmon, steelhead, and saltwater species but can be applied in various fly fishing scenarios.
Sink Rate: The speed at which a sinking fly line descends in the water column. Fly lines are available in different sink rates, ranging from very slow to extremely fast.
Sink-Tip Fly Line: A type of floating fly line where only the tip portion sinks. It is available in various lengths, such as 4-foot, 10-foot, 12-foot, 15-foot, 20-foot, 24-foot, and 30-foot sinking tips. The 10-foot sink-tip is the most commonly used and practical in many fishing applications. Sink-tip lines are valuable for all types of fly fishing, especially when fishing wet flies or streamers.
Sinking Fly Line (S): A fly line that fully submerges beneath the water's surface. The entire length of this type of line sinks, allowing anglers to target fish at different depths.
Sipping Rise: A subtle rise form exhibited by trout, resembling the circular waveform created by dropping a rock into a pool of water. This rise pattern often indicates the presence of a large feeding trout, particularly during dawn or dusk feeding times.
Spawn: The reproductive behavior of fish, during which females deposit eggs (referred to as spawn) on various surfaces, while males release milt to fertilize the eggs. This process ultimately leads to the hatching of fry.
Spey: A specialized casting technique that utilizes two-handed rods and a modified roll cast. It originated on the Spey River in Scotland, from which it derives its name.
Spinner: The egg-laying stage of a mayfly. While not as significant to fly fishers as the dun stage (see Mayfly and Dun), it still plays a role in the insect's life cycle.
Spool: The rotating component of a fly reel that holds the backing and fly line. Additional spools can be purchased for reels, allowing for quick changes between different types of lines to match fishing conditions.
Spring Creek: A creek or stream that receives its water from underground aquifers or springs, rather than relying on glacier/snow melt or surface runoff. Spring creeks feature consistent flows of pure, clean water throughout the year, with minimal temperature fluctuations compared to traditional creeks and rivers. This stability is due to their underground water sources.
Stalking: The act of stealthily approaching a fish to avoid startling or disturbing it.
Stance: The position of the angler's feet during casting. The foot on the casting side should be positioned about 45 degrees behind the lead foot, with shoulder-width spacing. For right-handed anglers, the right foot is positioned back, while left-handed anglers position their left foot back. This stance allows for easy twisting and rotation of the body during the cast. Standing with feet parallel restricts the body's mobility and limits casting accuracy and distance.
Steelhead: A migratory form of rainbow trout that spends part of its life in the ocean before returning to freshwater to spawn.
Stonefly: An important aquatic insect and a significant food source for trout in all stages of its life cycle. Stonefly nymphs can live for one to three years, depending on the species. Most stonefly species hatch by crawling to the shoreline and emerging from their nymphal cases above the water's surface. Adult stoneflies have two pairs of wings that fold flat along their backs when at rest. Stoneflies typically require rocky streambeds with good water quality.
Streamer: A type of fly designed to imitate various baitfish species that freshwater and saltwater game fish feed on. Streamers are typically larger and often heavily weighted flies that sink quickly and mimic the swimming motion of baitfish. Streamer patterns are effective for targeting larger trout that rely on baitfish for their caloric intake. These patterns can entice strikes from fish that may not respond to smaller dry flies.
Strike: The attempt made by a fish to eat a fly, whether successful or not. The term "strike" also refers to the angler's movement of the rod to set the hook.
Strike Indicator: (see Indicator)
Stripping Line: The action of retrieving the fly line by pulling it in through the fingers instead of winding it onto the reel.
Surgeon's Knot: An excellent knot used to join two lengths of monofilament, even when they have different diameters.
T
Tag (or Tag End): These are the remaining one or two lengths of tippet after tying a knot. In the case of a blood knot, intentionally leaving one tag end longer allows for the attachment of a dropper fly above the terminal (or point) fly.
Tail: The portion of the fly usually made from fine feathers or hair located at the end of the hook. The tail often imitates the legs of an insect or the pupal shuck still attached to emerging caddis or mayflies. Adding a tail to a fly provides motion and a lifelike appearance.
Tailing Rise: When fish feed in shallow water, their caudal fin is often exposed, creating a tailing rise. This behavior is an exciting discovery and usually indicates the possibility of attracting strikes by presenting the appropriate fly.
Tailwater: The section of a river or stream located downstream from a large man-made dam. Tailwaters, especially those originating from bottom-discharge dams, are renowned for their productivity and relatively cold, temperature-stable water conditions.
Tapered Leader: A leader made of monofilament material specifically designed for fly fishing. The back or butt section of the leader has a diameter nearly as large as the fly line, gradually tapering to a smaller diameter at the tip end (see Knotless Tapered Leader, Knotted Leader, and Tippet).
Terrestrial: Terrestrials refer to land-based insects that often serve as food for fish, particularly during warm summer months or windy conditions. Dry-fly anglers particularly enjoy fishing with terrestrial patterns, such as grasshoppers (hoppers), as they attract large, voracious trout.
Tight Loop: A term synonymous with a narrow loop (see Narrow Loop). It refers to a tightly formed loop in the fly line during the cast, which enhances accuracy and efficiency.
Tip Section (or Tip Top): The topmost section of a fly rod, characterized by its smallest diameter and furthest distance from the rod grip.
Tippet: The end section of a tapered leader, typically with the smallest diameter, where the fly is tied. When your tippet becomes damaged on rocks or logs during fishing, or if a section is lost due to an errant back cast in trees, it is advisable to replace the tippet. Carry multiple spools of tippet with varying diameters and breaking strengths to quickly match the remaining diameter of your fly leader.
Trout Unlimited: A nonprofit organization dedicated to the conservation and enhancement of trout fisheries, with a particular emphasis on wild trout.
Turn Over: The action of the fly line and leader straightening out at the completion of the cast. Proper turn over ensures accurate presentation and effective delivery of the fly to the target.
U
Undercurrent: The flow or current of water occurring below another current or beneath the water's surface.
Unloading the Rod: The process of the rod unbending and releasing its stored energy, transferring it back into the fly line during the cast.
Upstream: In the direction against the current of a river or stream.
Upwind: Moving or positioned into the direction from which the wind is blowing.
W
Wader Belt: An adjustable belt secured near the upper part of chest waders to prevent water from entering, especially crucial in case of a fall to avoid filling the waders with water.
Waders: Available in various styles and constructed from different waterproof fabrics, waders are categorized into two main types: boot foot and stocking foot. Boot foot waders have built-in boots, allowing you to easily slip them on and go. Stocking foot waders require the use of separate wading shoes, which generally offer better support and traction.
Wading Boots (or Shoes): These specialized boots are designed to be worn over stocking foot waders. They feature soles made of felt or rubber, and many can be equipped with studs for enhanced traction.
Wading Staff: A walking stick specifically adapted to provide stability for fly anglers while wading in fast or deep water. Some wading staffs are foldable and can be conveniently stored in a fishing vest pocket until needed.
Water Tension (or River Load) Cast: (see River Load Cast)
Weight Forward Line (WF): A fly line that is easy to cast due to its weight being concentrated in the forward section. Unlike a double taper line with a level middle section, a weight forward line quickly tapers down from the rear of the forward section to a thin diameter running line. This design allows it to shoot through the rod guides with minimal resistance, resulting in increased casting distance. Weight forward lines are highly versatile and suitable for various fly fishing applications.
Wet Fly: Any fly intended to be fished beneath the water's surface; nymphs and streamers are examples of wet flies. It is also a traditional fly tying style characterized by soft, swept-back hackle and a wing that sweeps backward. Wet flies are considered predecessors to nymphs and streamers.
Wet Fly Swing: A common presentation technique used when fishing with wet flies, particularly popular among steelhead anglers. It involves imitating the swimming motion of mayflies, emerging caddis, and small fish.
Wind Knot: An overhand knot unintentionally formed in the leader due to poor casting, significantly reducing its breaking strength.
X
'X': When combined with a number, the letter 'X' denotes the measurement of leader material diameter, such as "4X". A lower number indicates a larger tippet diameter, correlating with increased breaking strength. Consequently, delicate 7X tippet has a much smaller diameter and significantly lighter breaking strength compared to sturdier 2X tippet.
Z
Zinger: A retractable device used to suspend essential items, such as nippers, from a fly vest. It allows easy access to the tools while keeping them out of the way when not in use.
Kuhl Renegade Rock Pant Review
Kuhl Renegade Rock Pants - Lightweight, breathable, and durable. Are these the perfect adventure and everyday pants?
Living in the Arizona desert, I need pants that can take a beating without making me overheat.
IIt seems like most things out in the desert were designed to try to poke, scratch, or sting you. I am always on the search for the magic pant combination of protection and keeping cool - not an easy combo for a fabric to pull off. A few months ago I picked up a pair of Kuhl Renegade Rock Pants and think I may have found my new adventure/everyday pant.
(This post contains affiliate links. If you use these links to buy something we may earn a commission. Thanks! - Full Disclosure: I received this product in exchange for an honest unbiased review.)
Lightweight and breathable fabric
Starting from the top: the fabric. These pants rock for the dry heat of Arizona because they are made from a lightweight and breathable material that dries quickly. Listen, I am going to sweat. There's no way around that. The key is to minimize the discomfort and not add any additional heat factors like heavy fabrics. Kuhl even integrated some vented pockets that you can leave open to allow some airflow. I'll talk more about some of the rad features as we go. I wear these guys all day, for multiple days and they never lose their shape or fit. I can stay out in the sun for long periods of time thanks to the UPF 50+ protection. Bonus!
Elastic drawcord at the bottom hem
The magic is in the details. The Renegade Rock Pant has an elastic drawcord at the bottom hem. This lets you cinch them up for more freedom of movement on rough ground and style points. You can leave them undone for better air circulation when the temperature rises. I can't tell you how stoked I am about this! For work days, I leave the hem uncinched so it lays over the top of my show. When hiking or climbing, I cinch it up so there's no drag. Bonus: these look fab with my Chacos!
Fun factoid: these pants are available in 2 fits: Klassik and Tapered. The Klassik Fit is for those who like more of a roomy fit. The Tapered Fit Chino is a slimmer fit and my personal preference. For me, the tapered fit is spot on.
It is roomy enough to breathe without feeling like I'm swimming, but slim enough to still be very stylish and comfy.
Pocket design and options
For all of you pocket lovers out there, the Renegade Rock Pant has you more than adequately covered. In fact, there are 8. Yes, 8. I personally don't carry a lot in my pockets. It's nice to know that they are there if and when I may need them. I try to keep as little weight in my pants as possible. I usually only carry my phone in my front right pocket or slip it into the side leg pocket.
Inseam length options
When standing straight up, I top out at 5'8" on a good day, excluding hair. I have a longer torso, but shorter legs. Finding pants that don't bunch up even with a 30" inseam is a challenge. The Renegade Rock Pants are available in a 28" inseam option for certain colors. Heck to the Ya! This is pretty much unheard of in hiking pants. At least in my experience.
Long-lasting quality and durability
Finally, the long-lasting quality of these pants is noteworthy. They can take a beating on the trail and still look brand new at the end of the day. I have worn these every day, all day for work projects where I am walking 10 miles, constantly crouching, lifting heavy things, and climbing ladders and walls. They perform. I have even hand-washed these in a pinch and was able to wear them the next day since they dry so quickly. Just for reference, I am a professional photographer specializing in hotels and resorts which means I travel all over the world and work in ever-changing environments.
Kuhl Renegade Rock Pant for the Win
I think I can say with confidence that the Kuhl Renegade Rock Pants are one of the best hiking pants I've ever owned. I would definitely recommend them to any adventurer. What's not to love: they are super lightweight, the fabric is ultra-breathable, you can choose the fit, they have 8 pockets, a cinched hem, incredibly durable, they don't lose their shape after multiple wears, and they look super good! Kuhl smashed it with these pants!
Kuhl Renegade Rock vs Prana Brion
Last year, I wrote a review raving about the Prana Brion Pant. I still love these pants, but the main drawback to these was the weight. I find them to be too hot. The Kuhl Renegade Rock Pant edged out the Brion in a couple of areas:
breathability from the ventilated pocket openings
cinched bottom hem
keep their shape better than the Brion after multiple uses
5 Adventures in Phoenix during the Winter
Spending winter in Phoenix, Arizona is a great experience with its warm climate and wide range of outdoor activities to do.
Here are five amazing adventures to take in Phoenix during the winter:
Hiking - Take advantage of the moderate winter temperatures and explore some of the best trails in the area. Hike through McDowell Mountain Regional Park or along the shoreline of Tempe Town Lake for beautiful views and breathtaking nature.
Horseback Riding - Hop on horseback for an unforgettable ride across one of the nearby desert trails, with stunning views all around you. Spend an afternoon exploring South Mountain Park or embark on a sunrise ride around the Apache Trail Monument Valley.
Rock Climbing - Challenge yourself to some rock climbing at Papago Park’s Sandstone Quarry or Black Canyon National Park and feel like you’re soaring high above the valley floor!
Golfing - Get some practice in before spring golf season by hitting up one of Phoenix’s premier golf courses like Encanto 18, where you can challenge your skills and work on perfecting your game!
Off-Roading - Explore Phoenix's desert terrain on a guided ATV tour! Experience sand dunes, winding trails, and stunning red rock formations all while having a wild time!
The Best Hike and Hotel in Scottsdale
The first installment of our Hike and Hotel Series takes place in the sunny valley of Scottsdale, Arizona. The Hike and Hotel series is a collection of the best hotels that are close to our favorite hikes around the world. We put together the top picks for food, drinks, hikes, lodging and so much more.
From the stirring beauty of the lush Sonoran Desert to ultra-luxury resorts, chef-driven restaurants, and exciting activities and attractions, Scottsdale is bursting at the seams with the makings of a memorable getaway. What's even better? It's surrounded by some of the most unique and incredible hikes in the Southwest.
Where to Stay in Scottsdale
Iconic in nature, unrivaled in service. Capture the moment as well as the imagination at Arizona's premier luxury resort destination The Phoenician, a Luxury Collection Resort by Marriott.
About the Phoenician Resort
The Phoenician is a 250-acre luxury resort and convention facility in Phoenix and Old Town Scottsdale. It is located at the base of Camelback Mountain. This Arizona landmark had a luxurious makeover thanks to a three-year, $90 million refurbishment that included the pool area, lobby, and all 643 guest rooms (including casitas and suites). There are seven tennis courts, an amazing spa with a rooftop pool, and a restaurant and bar complex with 18 holes of golf. The kids will have a blast at this resort thanks to the water play area, water slide, kids' club, and game room, but adults will appreciate that they won't feel crowded out.
What's the best hike in Scottsdale?
Our favorite hike is one of two trails that weave their way up the "spine" of Camelback Mountain. Part of the Phoenix Mountains Preserve, Camelback gets its name from its two rock formations that resemble the head and back of a kneeling camel. The most popular trail is on the west side of the mountain called Echo Canyon Trail. If you have time, definitely check this hike out as well.
However, our favorite hike is located on the east side of Camelback Mountain and has just reopened after a full trailhead renovation - thanks in part to the Phoenician Resort. Cholla Trail is a fantastic hike that every visitor needs to try on their visit to Scottsdale, Arizona. It's a very challenging hike that climbs 1279 feet over the course of 1.2 miles each way. Just before the summit, the trail traverses the south side of the Camel. There are steep drop-offs and the trail is dotted with towering saguaro cacti and huge boulders. The hike terminates with a steep scramble to the top which is sure to get your adrenaline pumping.
What's New with the Cholla Trail?
One of the biggest challenges the community has faced is complaints from the neighborhood residents that surround the trailhead. The Phoenician Resort solved this issue by allowing the trail to wind through a portion of its property instead of going through the neighborhood. However, the parking situation has not changed much. There will be a section that is designated for Ride Share Apps for drop off and pick up. Most hikers will still need to arrive early and search for parking along Invergordon.
The new improvements include the removal of unstable boulders and an improved trailhead that has a bathroom, sinks, and a drinking fountain available for hikers.
What to Bring On Your Cholla Trail Hike
One of the best parts of Arizona is its weather. Well, for most of the year. For the majority of the year, the valley of the sun finds itself in sunny, warm weather. Most hikers wear athletic shorts and a moisture-wicking short sleeve shirt with some sturdy hiking boots on this trail. For those who are comfortable in sandals, Chacos are perfectly at home on these trails. Be prepared for loose sand, boulder hopping, and sharp rocks along the Cholla Trail. For hikers either getting an early start for sunrise or staying out late to watch the sunset, it's a good idea to bring a mid-layer weight shirt. In the desert, once the sun goes down, the temps are soon to follow.
Stay Hydrated and Keep it Clean
On average, there is about one rescue every other day on this mountain. Most of the time, the main reason is due to dehydration. Since many visitors are from out of state, they aren't accustomed to the incredibly dry, arid climate of the desert. This can give someone the falls idea that they are not sweating as much. In reality, they are sweating just as much if not more, and evaporate very quickly. It is easy to get behind on your hydration, so make sure you come prepared and sip all the way through your adventure. The best solution is to bring a hydration backpack with 3L of water. it is also a good idea to throw in an electrolyte mix into your hydration bladder.
Always, always always, please, please, please practice Leave No Trace ethics in the outdoors. Our trails and outdoor spaces are precious, sensitive areas that can easily become damaged from neglect - either intentional or not. Pack in what you pack out. Stay on the trails. Leave it cleaner than you found it. Be a boss and #appreciateAZ!!
Bulletproof Coffee
Want a cup of coffee that will sustain your energy throughout the morning and for all your adventures? Then make it bulletproof.
After traveling to Tibet and trying yak butter tea biohacker Dave Asprey brought home the recipe and coined it “Bulletproof coffee.” So what is it exactly? It's a combination of clean caffeine from coffee beans mixed with healthy fats from unsalted butter and MCT oil. The combination provides a sustained energy throughout the day. No more caffeine crashes!
The Bulletproof Coffee Recipe
- 1 cup of coffee
- 1 tsp - 2 Tbsp MCT OIL (work your way up with this one as you can initially get stomach cramps)
- 1-2 Tbsp unsalted grass fed butter
- For a hint of spice add a sprinkle of cinnamon!
It’s best to blend the three ingredients together in a blender otherwise the oils and fats separate. Blending makes for a very smooth creamy latte.
- Calories: 230
- Fat: 25g
- Saturated Fat: 21g
- Carbs: 0g
- Protein: 0g
- Fiber: 0g
- Sugar: 0g
- Salt: 0mg
So why does it provide sustained energy? Let's break the ingredients down.
THE BULLETPROOF COFFEE
Coffee is a powerful antioxidant. Caffeine keeps you alert and boosts your metabolism. But just like the food you eat, the quality of the coffee you drink matters. Bad quality coffee can make you feel tired and sluggish, reaching for another cup. While a clean quality bean can keep you fueled and energized.
Avoid coffees with molds like ochratoxin. Molds will steal your mental edge and make you weak. For sustained energy it’s best to choose organic coffees that test for molds and toxins like Bulletproof.
We love Bulletproof not only because it’s a clean bean coffee but because they also support sustainability and our environment.
GRASS FED BUTTER
Unsalted grass fed butters are a nutrient dense source of fat providing fuel for energy. We like unsalted Kerrygold.
MCT OIL
A fat burning fuel made from coconuts. This is the key ingredient that helps you feel energized and focused. MCT's don't have to be broken down in the body therefore they give your cells an immediate energy source to pull from.
Keto
If you are interested in learning more about keto and a toxin free lifestyle check out Keto Canary.
Don't forget to save the recipe on Pinterest!
Ultimate 3 Day Backpacking Checklist, Everything You Need
3 Day Backpacking Checklist - the ultimate guide to make sure you have everything you need for your next backpacking trip.
This 3-day backpacking checklist includes everything you'll need for a comfortable weekend backpacking trip — nothing more, nothing less.
If you are just starting out or if you want to have your backpacking gear dialed in for your next trip, this guide will have you covered. I encourage you to make adjustments based on your specific needs but try to stick to the essentials.
In this checklist, I detail everything I bring on a three-day weekend backpacking trip in the spring, summer, or fall. I hope that this detailed packing list will ease your planning, help you figure out what you can cut out, and give you some good choices for gear to invest in that will last you for many years.
Start planning your next backpacking trip and make sure you have everything you need with this 3-day backpacking checklist.
Backpacking Pack
Starting right at the top, picking out the correct bag for your trip is the most important gear decision you are going to make. The pack will need to be big enough to hold all of your gear, comfortable enough to wear on long trekking days, and durable enough to last for many trips to come. Everything on your backpacking checklist will be housed in this bag, so choose wisely!
Ideally, for a 3-day backpacking trip during the Summer, Fall or Spring when the weather is more temperate, you can get away with a 45 to 55L pack. In colder temps, you may need to up your carrying capacity in order to pack warmer clothing and/or more layers.
We are huge fans of Gregory Backpacks because we believe they check all of the boxes that are most important to us. They are incredibly durable and dependable. They have features such as full front access on some of their bags that no other manufacturer offers. Their fit is very universal and makes for very comfortable hiking days.
For a 3-Day backpacking trip, I personally use the Gregory Baltoro 75L because I carry a ton of camera gear. It has the best weight support, and having a lot of extra space allows me to move the gear around the pack to make it very comfortable. If I didn't carry so much gear, my go-to bag would be the newly released, ultralight Gregory 58L Focal.
The equivalent bags for women would be the Gregory Deva 60 or 70L and the Maven 55L. The brand new ultralight Facet 55L would be another great option.
Backpacking Tent
Your tent will always be one of the heaviest items in your pack, so make sure you choose one that is big enough to accommodate you (and your partner) comfortable, but not too big that your back is screaming at you. There are a lot of options that greatly range in price, but I highly recommend two tents above all the others.
My personal tent of choice is the Nemo Hornet 2p Ultralight Backpacking Tent. It is incredibly light, packs up super easily, and is spacious (enough) for two people. It also has two pretty big vestibule areas that keep your backpack and dirty gear outside of the tent while keeping it safe from the weather.
If you want a bit more space, the Big Agnes Copper Spur HV UL 2 is an amazing tent! It is almost as light as the Nemo, but it is completely freestanding and has a lot more interior space.
Sleeping Bag
The temperature rating of your bag is going to be dependent upon a few different factors: the weather and climate, time of year, type of sleeper, etc. I good rule of thumb is to plan for the temperature to be 10° colder than what the report says the low will be. So if the nighttime low is 45° I would bring a bag that is rated for 35°.
To be honest, I normally bring a very warm bag. In fact, my go-to bag is the Nemo Kayu Ultralight 15° Sleeping Bag. It's overkill, I know. But I can always unzip to sleep with half of my body exposed. I would rather be over-prepared than under.
Sleeping Pad
I can't stress the importance of having a proper sleeping pad. It may be the most misunderstood or overlooked piece of gear when it comes to sleep systems. You can have the warmest sleeping bag in the world, but if you don't have a properly rated sleeping pad, say goodbye to your body temps. This is especially true when you are using down-insulated bags. Down loses almost all of its insulating properties when compressed. This means there is very little warmth being held in by your bag underneath you - that is taken care of by your sleeping pad.
I use the Nemo Tensor Regular Wide Sleeping Pad because it is insanely light, very comfortable, and has a true 3 season insulation rating. It also doesn't make any annoying sounds as you move around, which I do (a lot). It comes with the Nemo Vortex pump sack making inflating a breeze.
Trekking Poles
I admit I was pretty anti hiking poles for a long time. I thought they were more of a nuisance than an aid. Keep in mind, much of my dismay came from hikers using them on day hikes and swinging them around - basically using them improperly in places where they weren't necessary. Then, I got older. LOL
I won't backpack without trekking poles. They are a required part of my kit. My packs tend to be heavy due to camera gear and copious amounts of chocolate. Though I don't mind the extra help poles give by allowing you to use your upper body a bit when climbing, it is the downhill that gets me.
Do yourself a favor, and use poles when descending with any kind of weight on your back. Your knees will thank you. The Black Diamond Trail Ergo Cork Trekking Poles are a solid set that has all the bells and whistles I need. They are super stable, fold down reasonably small, and are fairly lightweight.
Headlamp / Torch
I have used the Petzl Tactikka Core Headlamp for many years and it has worked flawlessly. It is unique in that it has a self-regulating brightness adapter mode that helps to conserve battery life. It also has a hybrid charging system allowing you to use AAA batteries in a pinch. The red light also helps to save your night vision and avoid that awkward moment when you blind people trying to have a conversation.
GPS / Communication Device(s)
The Garmin inReach Mini allows for two-way custom texting and also has GPS that you can use for navigating. It just may save your life one day. It also helps keep your loved ones at ease when you're off the grid by letting you send updates.
I also bring along a pair of Rocky Talkies for communication amongst the group. These are crucial for nailing poses when your subjects are far away, or when using a drone. They also allow the group to be more versatile allowing individuals to break off due to interests, speed, energy, etc, but stay in safe contact with everyone.
First Aid Kit
You should always have a first aid kit on your backpakcng checklist and whenever you are adventuring or traveling off-grid. Accidents happen - just check my scar count. Adventure Medical Kits Ultralight & Watertight Medical Kit come in an assortment of sizes that you can choose from depending on your and/or the groups' needs.
I usually go through the kit and customize it with items that I am more familiar with - otherwise, I'm just carrying useless weight. I also add in my own leuko blister tape strips that I make. I use this leuko tape and this paper backing.
Backpacking Checklist: Cooking & Kitchen Gear
There are loads of options for cooking food when backpacking, but I tend to keep it very simple. I want to spend my time enjoying the outdoors, taking photos and being wild in the wild. The last thing I want to be concerned with is wrestling with prepping or cooking my food.
Backpacking Stove and Fuel
There is no easier, more convenient, and reliable option than a Jetboil Zip Cooking System. It is super simple, fairly small, and very reliable. For my cooking needs, I only need to heat up water for my meals and coffee. Carry a long handle spoon/spork to make digging into your backpacking meals less messy.
Pro Tip: Divide the carrying weight by having one person carry the Jetboil and someone carrying the fuel.
Water Filtration System
I recently tested and am in love with the Grayl Ultrapress Water Purifier. Yes, it is heavy, but you have to keep in mind that it is a filter AND a water bottle. So that perceived extra weight negates itself when you compare it against a filter plus a water bottle. Also, this is one of the only purifying systems that filter viruses.
I also carry Water purifying tablets for emergencies. They are very small and you can easily stow them with your first aid kit and not even know they are there.
Camp Mug
You will need something that you can keep in your hand when it's filled with piping hot coffee or tea, as well as keep your beverage nice and cool on warmer evenings. A backpacker's favorite, including me, is the GSI Outdoors Infinity Backpackers Mug. It's insulated and only weighs 3.2oz. Plus, it is spill-resistant and has a little handle making your java sipping just delightful.
Knife or Multi-Tool
I use the Gerber Dime for backpacking & Mountain biking. The spring-loaded pliers work well, the tiny scissors are strong, and the knife blade is sharp. It even has tiny tweezers for the unexpected splinter. All of the tools lock securely into place when you’re using them, and the unit feels solid and durable.
Spyderco Delica 4 Lightweight 7.15" Signature Folding Knife is the best knife out there for backpacking. This knife combines a lightweight of only 2.5 oz with a razor sharp blade and a remarkably comfortable, solid grip.
Bear Canister or Bag
This is a requirement in some parks, but not necessarily everywhere you go. Make sure you check before you head out. For shorter trips or when only carrying food for yourself, the Medium Bear Vault is a good, inexpensive option. For longer trips, or when carrying for two people, go for the larger version.
Backpacking Checklist: Toiletries
Let's just be open and honest about what we doing out in the wild. We are being free. It's okay to be grimey and stinky. In fact, it's kind of expected. When it comes to figuring out what to put in your toiletry kit, think about hygiene. The rest of the fluff will be waiting for you when you return home.
Toothpaste and Toothbrush
Do you know that travel aisle that has all the super cute, tiny bottles of things that are supposedly for travel use? Well, this is the one time you might actually use them! The toothbrush is up to you. As for the toothpaste, go with a travel-size version. Our favorite is the Dr Bronners because it is all-natural, fair trade certified, and the packaging is completely recyclable.
Let's Talk About Your Poop Kit
We all do it. It's a natural thing. For some, what is unnatural is the idea of doing it outside of a bathroom. Please read about proper Leave No Trace practices and poop the right way in the wild. When done correctly, you are actually helping Mother Earth.
Despite the dry or frozen soil, the Duece Ultralight Trowel ensures that you can deposit your own brand of fertilizer into the Earth’s natural garden. Digging a personal latrine is more than a cosmetic camping practice because, when buried, your waste is quickly decomposed and absorbed as nutrients instead of running into the local watershed.
Have an extra Ziploc or stuff sack with you that you designate for the dirty TP, and pack it out. Use some hand sanitizer to clean your hands. If you use wet wipes, just remember that they also get packed out with you.
Sunscreen
When you're backpacking, especially in higher elevations, your skin is constantly being exposed to harmful UV rays. Sun Bum Orginal SPF 50 is a reef-safe sunscreen that is made with clean ingredients.
Lip Balm
Nobody likes chapped lips, being exposed to the elements can bring them on in a jiffy. We always stash some Dr Bronners Organic Lip Balm to protect our kissers. As a side note, lip balm can be indirectly applied elsewhere in emergencies. (wink)
Quick Dry Towel
A lightweight quick dry towel is always handy, whether it’s for drying your hands, doing dishes, or being used after a shower or swim. They come in a variety of sizes so you can pack what you need.
Backpacking Checklist: Clothing
This is the part of the list that most people get wrong. It took me many trips before I trusted my clothing setup. No matter how many times I heard others say it, I still needed to go through it to learn on my own. It is safe to say that you only NEED about half of what you THINK you need.
Since we are sticking to a 3-day trip, the truth is you only need 1 full hiking outfit and 1 camp outfit. Obviously, there are a couple of things you can bring extras of, but after a couple of hours on the trail, you will be happy you decided to leave the fashion show back at home.
Though comfort is king, steer clear of cotton fabrics. Cotton holds moisture and collects odor, both of which won't make you comfortable on the trail. Stick to moisture-wicking fabrics that pull the sweat away from your skin, dries quickly and resist odor.
Rain Shell or Shell
Even though many of my backcountry trips take place in the desert with super low chances of rain, I ALWAYS pack a rain jacket. It is a crucial part of The Adventure Dispatch backpacking checklist. A wet backpacker is not a happy backpacker. Plus these jackets are also windproof, so even if it doesn't rain, a shell will protect you from other elements.
This is the piece of gear that I absolutely recommend spending money to get the best quality you can afford. When you purchase a quality piece of gear you should expect it to last years. I have used the same jacket, the Arc'teyx Beta LT Jacket, for the last 8 years and it works just like the day I bought it. The LT hits the perfect spot for me when it comes to weight and waterproofness.
Insulated Jacket or Vest
Probably one of my favorite and most worn pieces of gear is my mid-layer. The North Face Ventrix Hooded Jacket goes on every single adventure I do. It is incredibly comfortable, super warm, very breathable, and ultralight (13.4 oz).
By far, the most popular jacket in this space is the Arc'teryx Atom LT Hoody (13.2 oz) which is also a fantastic jacket. I don't have personal experience with the hoody, but I do have and use the Arc'teryx Atom LT Vest on warmer excursions.
Top Base Layer
For colder weather, the Patagonia Capilene Midweight Crew Top is a great choice for a base layer. It's 100% recycled, only weighs 6.5 oz and is more durable than merino. The fit is great - not too tight or loose, and resists odors.
For warmer treks, I always bring my Outdoor Research Echo Hoody. It is ultralight, quick-drying, odor-resistant and comes in rad vibrant colors. My only qualm with it is that they tend to run just a hair short in length.
Moisture Wicking T-Shirt
On my backpacking checklist, I usually account for 2 Outdoor Research Echo Tees because they are so incredibly lightweight and I know I am going to sweat when wearing a pack. It's nice to have a tee to switch out after taking a break while the other one dries.
Hiking Pants
I am a big fan of the Eddie Bauer Guide Pro Pants. They also come in a slim version if you prefer a more tailored fit. These have lasted me for years, don't loosen up to much on multiday trips, dry quick and don't restrict movement. The only downside is the lack of breathability on warmer days.
In warmer weather, the Outdoor Research Ferrosi pant are the ultimate hiking pant. These are the most breathable hiking pants on the market are still incredibly durable with decent moisture wicking capabilities.
Hiking Shorts
I admit, I mostly hike in shorts. I run very hot which means I sweat. A lot. The more air I can get on my skin the better. Keep in mind, most of my adventures happen in warmer, dry climates. The most important factors to me are fit, breathability and durability.
I go with one of two setups. It is either a pair of Vuori Trail Shorts with a liner or the Outdoor Research Ferrosi 7 in Short. The Vuori are insanely comfortable and move with you like a second layer of skin, but won't hold up in harsher conditions like thick brush. The Ferrosi shorts on the other hand are ready for anything you can dish out. As a bonus, they have an integrated hip belt so you can adjust on the fly.
Quick Dry Undies
No backpacking checklist would be complete without talking about the under skivvies. I bring two pairs of quick drying underwear that I alternate, so breathability and odor control are 2 of the most important features I look for. I usually bring an ultralight and super quick-drying pair of Outdoor Research Echo Boxer Briefs and an Icebreaker Anatomica Boxer that has better odor control, but are a bit of a heavier fabric.
Hiking Socks
Sometimes overlooked, your sock choice if one of the most important sections on your backpacking checklist. When it comes to sock shopping, I am looking for a couple of keypoints that need to be hit.
As a hot hiker and usually in warmer weather, having lightweight sock with great breathability is paramount, but it can't come at the sacrifice of proper padding for long treks. I've tried many socks, but the Smartwpol PHD Pro Light Crew sock have been the best for my needs.
Hiking Boots
Now I need to be 100 here. My go-to adventure footwear of choice are a solid pair of Chacos. I have backpacked with heavy gear through super rough terrain wearing Chacos. They work for me, but that doesn't mean they work for everyone. Recently, I have found boots that may have changed the game for me.
With a bummer knee injury thanks to trail running in "minimalist" shoes, I went in search of more padded footwear to keep these old bones from getting older. Every runner that I know and trust all pointed to Hoka One One for trail runners. I gave them a try and instantly converted.
I had a backpacking trip coming up, so I gave the Hoka One One Anacapa Hiking Boots a try and fell in love. They are very lightweight, have enough padding to dampen the footfalls, but not so much so that you feel squishy, and don't feel restrictive like many boots do.
Camp Sandals
It blows my mind when I hear backpackers not bringing camp sandals or when they try to tell me I don't need the extra weight. You. Are. Crazy. Backpacking is an exercise in simplicity, and what it more simple than the pure joy of pulling off your ragged, tired hiking boots and slipping into nice, cozy camp slippers to enjoy the evening?
I have had a pair of Sanuk Vagabond Sidewalk Surfer that have come on every backpacking trip I've been on unless it involves snow or heavy chances of rain. They weigh 6 oz, pack flat and are super comfy, not to mention stylish!
A ton of backpackers love their Crocs. They are durable, have decent protection and ultralight, but I don't like the bulk they add, and find them to be slippery when wet. Others go with a hybrid water shoe like the Vivobarefoot Ultra 3 or a camp sandal like the Xero Shoes Z-Trail Sandals.
For cold weather camping, the North Face Thermoball Traction Booties are the jam! They keep you feet toasty warm and dry even on the coldest of nights.
Backpacking Checklist: Accesories
When backpacking, you'll want to bring a hat and sunglasses to protect yourself from the sun. I frequently wear a trucker hat while backpacking, but sometimes go with the Outdoor Research Sombriolet Hat when I want more coverage.
I also recommend a Buff, which may be worn over your neck for sun protection, across your face and ears for wind protection, and even as a headband. You should also bring gloves and a beanie if it's going to be cold.
Is there anything on our backpacking checklist that we missed or do you have any questions about an upcoming backpacking trip? Please let us know in the comments section below.
Hikers Will Need a Permit To Hike Angels Landing
Starting in April, Zion National Park will require hikers to win a permit lottery to climb the Angels Landing trail.
Want to hike to Angels Landing in Zion National Park?
You’ll have to be a little bit brave, and a little bit lucky.
As of April 1, hikers will need a permit to make the strenuous 5-mile trek, which climbs 1,488 feet and is definitely not for anyone with a fear of heights.
The new policy comes in response to a rise in visitors to the park in recent years. June was the busiest month ever for Zion, which opened its doors in 1919, and the park is on course to have its busiest year ever, surpassing 2019′s 4.5 million visitors.
The Angels Landing trail, in particular, has become increasingly crowded — and dangerous. At least 13 people have died on the trail since 2000.
“Angels Landing is one of the most iconic destinations in Zion National Park and issuing permits will make going there fair for everyone.” Jeff Bradybaugh, park superintendent, said in a statement. “The system we’ve put in place will reduce crowding on the trail, address safety concerns and make it easy for visitors to plan ahead.”
How to Get a Permit for Angels Landing
People will be allowed to enter the lottery for a permit online beginning Jan. 3, 2022. It'll cost $6 to enter the lottery and $3 per person among lottery winners of a group. The initial lottery will close on Jan. 20, 2022, for permits between April 1 and May 31, 2022.
Another lottery window will begin April 1, 2022, for permits between June 1 and Aug. 31, 2022. On July 1, the window will open for permits between Sept. 1 and Oct. 31, 2022. Permits for Dec. 1, 2022, through Feb. 28, 2023, will first go on sale on Oct. 1, 2022.
The $6 application fee is nonrefundable, according to park officials. Lottery winners can receive a refund for the $3 per person if they cancel two days before their permit date.
Park officials say people will need to print or download their permits before they get to the Angels Landing trailhead. A ranger may ask for a permit at the Grotto, Scout Lookout or along the trail. They may turn a hiker around if they do not have their permit with them.
Why did this happen?
The new permit program is in response to safety concerns and congestions along the hike that have risen in recent years. Last month, preliminary visitation data shows Zion National Park, at over 4.5 million, has already broken its visitation record this year.
The figure, through October, is about a 60% increase from visitation numbers reported in 2011. With 2021 trends at Angels Landing mirroring 2019 trends, when the park began counting people going up Angels Landing, officials said they knew it meant they needed to do something to address overcrowding on the trail.
Rangers started testing out the system during the summer holiday season in an effort to manage the number of hikers especially along the chain section of the hike, which posed safety concerns. Park officials then proposed the concept as a mainstay in August.
The plan received close to 1,000 responses during the public comment period and enough support that they moved forward with the idea. A spokesperson for the park said that since the permit lottery is a pilot program, the National Park Service will monitor it and make adjustments “as needed.” Officials also plan to seek feedback on the plan after it is implemented to see what does and doesn’t work.
How to Hike to Cathedral Rock in Sedona, Arizona
So you're thinking of visiting Sedona? You're about to go on an incredible journey. The red pillars are among the most spectacular sights I've seen while hiking. It's one of the most beautiful spots I've ever seen. One of the best things to do in Sedona is hike Cathedral Rock which is why it made our Top 6 Hikes in Sedona.
Sedona is a place where you simply must go outside. Cathedral Rock Trail is one of my favorite Sedona hikes due to it's challenges.
Everything you need to know about climbing Cathedral Rock in Sedona is right here!
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO HIKE THE CATHEDRAL ROCK TRAIL?
The greatest time to hike Cathedral Rock Trail is without a doubt in the hours leading up to dusk. There are great views of Sedona from the top, and it is even more magical at sunset.
If you plan on lingering at the summit until sunset, carry a headlamp to assist you in descending the trail. You'll need your hands to get down the trail's steeper sections.
The best time of year to hike cathedral rock is fall to early spring for cooler temps and less crowds.
HOW TO GET TO THE CATHEDRAL ROCK TRAILHEAD IN SEDONA
Cathedral Rock is one of the most popular Sedona hikes. There are multiple trailheads that lead to Cathedral Rock but we found Cathedral Rock Trailhead No. 170 to be the closest.
Cathedral Rock Trail Head Coordinates: 34°49’30.7″N 111°47’18.3″W
The parking lot is a lot busier during the more popular hiking times. Typically, the earlier you are there, the easier parking will be.
There is overflow parking further down on Back O’Beyond Road.
DIRECTIONS TO THE CATHEDRAL ROCK TRAILHEAD
Head south on the junction of 89A and 179. Drive 179 south for about 3.5 miles until you reach Back O’ Beyond Road on the right. Then go approximately .6 miles. The parking lot turnout is on the left.
Note: There is a $5 cost for the Red Rock Pass for parking. The America the Beautiful Pass is also a valid parking pass.
CATHEDRAL ROCK VIA THE BALDWIN TRAILHEAD
There is an alternate way to get to Cathedral Rock if you want a longer and more scenic hike. It starts from the Baldwin Trailhead. The trail is 3.7 miles round trip, and it takes about 1.5 hours to get to the top of Cathedral Rock.
This route will have wonderful views of the west side of Cathedral Rock as you start your hike.
CATHEDRAL ROCK HIKE
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO HIKE CATHEDRAL ROCK IN SEDONA?
Cathedral Rock in Sedona will take 30-40 minutes if you hike at a moderate to fast pace. It will take roughly 60 minutes to hike to the top if you hike slower, if you are hiking with children, if you take some breaks along the route, or if you stop to take photos.
I would recommend planning for about 3-4 hours for the entire adventure.
TRAIL STATS –
- Length: 1.2 miles
- Elevation Gain: 744 feet
- Route Type: Out & Back
- Difficulty: Moderate
CLIMBING CATHEDRAL ROCK IN SEDONA
In general, the Cathedral Rock route is simple to follow. Along the trail, there are basket cairns packed with rocks to direct you. The trail begins with a dried-up creek, followed by a short ascent to a plateau.
The plateau region offers stunning views over the Sedona area and is an excellent location for photographing Cathedral Rock in the background.
You'll climb up through the scramble from there. It's a little crag that you'll have to climb on your hands and knees to get to. This is the most difficult section of the hike, but if you go slow and steady, you'll be OK. The crack is about 40 feet long and has a 45-degree incline.
After the scramble, you'll come to another plateau, which is an excellent area to pause and snap photos if you want to. You'll continue climbing Cathedral Rock from there. There are few stone steps at the summit that will lead you to the top.
The end of the trail has a sign saying, “End of Trail”, but the views alone will tell you that you are there!
HOW DIFFICULT IS THE CATHEDRAL ROCK HIKE?
Although the hike to the summit of Cathedral Rock is short, it does include some steep sections. The Cathedral Rock Trail has certain sections where you must scramble over the rocks using your hands and feet.
For most people, it is not too much of a challenge to climb over the boulders, but this could be difficult depending on the physical abilities of those you are hiking with. The trail is well broken in with places for hand and footholds in the rock making the climb a little easier. Make sure you are wearing sturdy shoes or even better ---> CHACOS!!!
AT THE TOP
At the summit, there is a ledge that wraps around the top making a lot of places to explore and room for everyone. There is a very large drop-off at the top, but the ledge is pretty wide to have safe places for kids to sit.
The highlight and favorite viewpoint is off to the far right after you have reached the summit viewing area. There is a fun ledge that is a great place to take pictures and enjoy the views. It is known by some as the Edge of the World. There is a high and steep drop-off here so be careful.
HEADING DOWN THE TRAIL
There are some spots you will need to slide down on the rocks, but overall, the hike down is pretty easy going and simple to follow - just keep an eye out for the baslets of rocks that you passed by on the way up.
As you head down Cathedral Rock be sure to notice the beautiful views in the distance. Courthouse Butte will be visible as well as Sedona.
SEDONA GUIDED TOURS
Sedona is a lovely destination with plenty of options for independent exploration. However, with so many energy vortexes and gorgeous sites to visit, it can be tough to determine where to spend your time and easy to overlook many of Sedona's unique attractions.
If you want the best Sedona tour with a lot of flexibility, I suggest booking a guided tour with Sedona Spirit Journeys.
During this highly recommended tour, an experienced guide will teach about the area’s sacred nature and energy vortexes as well as the history and geology of the area. This is a great way to see everything Sedona has to offer.
The best part of it all? You pick your stops and then sit back and relax!
HIKING TIPS FOR CATHEDRAL ROCK IN SEDONA
- PLAN TO HIKE EARLY IN THE MORNING OR AT SUNSET - These two times of day will give you the best lighting and will help you beat the crowds.
- CHECK WHAT TIME SUNSET IS - Check to see what time sunset is expected for that day if you want to be there for sunset. To reach to the summit, you'll want to give yourself plenty of time. Depending on how quickly you hike, it normally takes 30-60 minutes.
- If you are planning on staying at the top of Cathedral Rock until sunset, make sure to bring some sort of flashlight to get down. Headlamps are the best so you can have your hands-free climbing down the rock.
- USE YOUR AMERICAN THE BEAUTIFUL ANNUAL PASS - The American the Beautiful Pass is honored for the daily pass for parking for all the Sedona trails. If you do not have a pass, you can purchase a pass for $5.00 at the fee machines at designated trailheads.
- BE PREPARED - This includes sunscreen, plenty of water, and snacks. Don’t be fooled into thinking the hike is only a mile. The pathway is steep and narrow in places making it more difficult. There is also little to no shade on the trail.
CAN YOU SEE CATHEDRAL ROCK IN SEDONA WITHOUT HIKING?
Whether you can see Cathedral Rock without hiking depends on what you are wanting to see. You can see the Cathedral Rock formation from below. Hikers will not be able to see the panoramic valley views or cradle of Cathedral Rock. You can only get to those by hiking to the top.
If you want to see Cathedral Rock from a distance, the Templeton Trail is a good alternative. Also, you can climb to the first plateau for a great picture area without making the steep ascent through the crack.
IS CATHEDRAL ROCK TRAIL DOG FRIENDLY?
Cathedral Rock is dog-friendly if the dogs are kept on a leash. There are some big steps and boulders to climb through, so it is recommended that your dog have hiking experience. In my opinion, once you get to the rock-climbing portion it really is not an ideal hike for dogs unless your dog has a high level of physical abilities.
LET'S TALK ABOUT THE VORTEX
Sedona is a lovely destination to visit where you can easily connect with nature. Some visitors travel to Sedona in search of powerful vortex encounters. Cathedral Rock is said to be one of Sedona's four vortexes.
This vortex energy is one of many reasons why people hike the Cathedral Rock Trail. This energy is meant to calm, inspire and ground you.
No matter what your beliefs, Cathedral Rock is a place that will make you feel something. Whether it is outer-worldly spirits or awe and appreciation for the beautiful world we live in, a climb to the top is well worth your time.
OTHER HIKING TRAILS IN SEDONA
Hiking Cathedral Rock in Sedona is my favorite trails in the area but there is still plenty of other fun and beautiful hikes to explore in the area. We recommend picking a hike or two every day because it is such a beautiful area to enjoy.
BIRTHING CAVE
- Hiking the Birthing Cave in Sedona is another family-friendly hike that we enjoyed. The trail is pretty flat until the final descent into the cave. The cave is a fun place to play and has beautiful views of the Sedona area. Be sure to download the coordinates of the cave before heading out before cell coverage is limited.
BELL ROCK TRAIL
- This is a fun area to explore, especially if you’re hiking with kids in Sedona. The Bell Rock Loop is about a mile long with lots of fun places to explore along the way. You can climb all over Bell Rock with great views of the Sedona area.
DEVILS BRIDGE
- The Devils Bridge hike is another great and popular photo opportunity in Sedona. It is a natural sandstone bridge with great views of Sedona. The trailhead is easy to access with an easy hiking trail. The only downside is the trail is about 4.2 miles roundtrip.
SOLDIERS PASS
- This is a relatively easy trail until the final descent into the cave. It is a heavily trafficked trail with plenty to see along the way like the Seven Sacred Pools and sinkhole. This is a popular hike for families.
MORE TO SEE!
Also, don’t forget that Sedona is only a two-hour drive to the Grand Canyon. You could easily add this in as a day trip during your time in Sedona! Visiting the Grand Canyon is a must-see in Arizona!
If you are going to be exploring the area around Sedona, Page is a fun city to visit. The Horseshoe Bend overlook and Antelope Canyon are fun places to explore.
How to Visit Horseshoe Bend in Arizona
Lower Antelope Canyon – Visiting the Famous Slot Canyon
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The 6 Best Hikes in Sedona You Need to Do
Here is a list of the Top 6 hikes in Sedona. Beautiful hikes can be found all throughout Sedona.
On my list of the top 6 hikes in Sedona, you'll find everything from a simple walking route to a heart-pumping hike up a mountain.
Check out this Web Story!
Top 6 Hikes in Sedona
Let's Get Into it
Cathedral Rock Hike (SEE TRAIL GUIDE HERE)
One of the best hikes in Sedona is Cathedral Rock. This hike is short and quick, and it's a lot of fun from start to end, with some rock scrambling and jaw-dropping views.
Expect no solitude on this trail due to its popularity. The hike to Cathedral rock and the reward of panoramic vistas are the highlights of this adventure.
On a much greater scale, it's very similar to the bell rock climb. You'll hike and scramble your way up to Cathedral rock from the trailhead until you reach the saddle between the sandstone massive spires.
Pro Tip: This is one of the most popular hikes in Sedona and getting a parking space can be a real challenge, so get there early.
Devils Bridge
In Sedona, this is a very popular hike. Hundreds of people hike to the bridge every day to take photos of the vistas and even propose.
Devils Bridge is only a 2-mile round-trip hike from the trailhead. It's largely level and fast, with a few series of inclines and stone steps right before reaching the bridge.
Getting to the trailhead is the tricky part. The Devils Bridge Trailhead is located on a dirt road that requires a high clearance vehicle to access. If you don't have a 4x4, you'll have to walk down Dry Creek Road from the Mezcal Trailhead.
Devils Bridge is the largest natural sandstone arch located in the Sedona area of Coconino National Forest.
Broken Arrow
The Broken Arrow Trail is one of the busiest short hikes in the area, because to its convenient location on the south side of Sedona, just off Highway 179, and its proximity to a popular jeep track.
Both routes rise gently up a large valley with colorful, jagged, eroded red cliffs and buttes on both sides, terminating at a low pass (Chicken Point) with good views south to Oak Creek Canyon and north to Sedona and the high mountains beyond.
The standard $5 Red Rock Pass is required for all parked vehicles.
Bell Rock
One of Sedona's most well-known features is Bell Rock. Hiking up to Bell Rock is a lot of fun, which is why it's one of Sedona's most popular climbs.
The ascent begins with trail signs and wire baskets filled with boulders for the first.25 miles. The wire baskets vanish as you go further up Bell Rock, but you can continue hiking higher by figuring out your own route.
Rock scrambling up to the top levels of bell rock is part of the fun of this hike. It's entirely up to you how far you want to go. You won't be able to climb all the way to the summit of the rock, but you can get quite close.
It is quite clear how it received its name; it looks like a giant red bell melting into the landscape.
Soldiers Pass
There are a number of reasons why the Soldier Pass Trails is one of Sedona's top hikes. For one thing, it's a short and simple hike. But it also passes along some rad features like the seven sacred pools, the Devil's Kitchen Sinkhole, and if you can find it, the famous Soldier Pass Cave.
West Fork Trail
The super-easy and insanely picturesque hike follows Oak Creek. Because of its shady route and tranquility, this hike in Sedona is unlike any other in the area.
You stroll along the creek for virtually the entire hike and get to see how the creek chiseled away the canyon walls. It resembles the subway in Zion National Park in a lot of ways.
This is a nice hike to do on a hot day in Sedona because you're in the shade of the trees.
What to Bring on your Top 6 Hikes in Sedona Adventures
- Footwear – Chacos
- Hydration – Camelback Hydration Backpack (Bring lots of water!)
- Camera – Canon EOS R
- UV - Sunglasses / Hat / Sunscreen
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Echo Canyon Trail on Camelback Mountain - What You Need to Know
Echo Canyon Trail on Camelback Mountain is one of the most popular hikes to do around Scottsdale and Phoenix, AZ. Here's Why!
Hike Echo Canyon Trail - Camelback Mountain
Camelback Mountain via Echo Canyon Trail is a 2.5 mile heavily trafficked out and back trail located near Scottsdale, Arizona that offers scenic views and is rated as difficult.
Getting There:
The parking lot is off Squaw Peak drive and leads to many more hiking trails in the Phoenix Mountain Preserve. The route starts on a short connector trail and then goes straight up to the summit.
The Trail:
The trail begins from the top of the parking lot, just beyond the restrooms and benches. An easy incline at first, the path passes a smaller rock formation, then approaches the base of a larger one known as the “Praying Monk”. If you look up from the Echo Canyon trail, you may see roped-up rock climbers scaling the face above you. And if you turn around and look the other way, you can see Piestewa Peak rising up behind you.
At around 0.4 miles the trail picks up with a set of wooden stairs. Soon after this, the route becomes so steep that there are metal railings anchored into the mountain to safely assist hikers in this potentially dicey situation.
At first, a metal pole will only be on your left-hand side but soon after there will be a pole in the middle and then to the right. From my experience, the pole on your left (as you are going up) is the best pole to hang onto. There are carved out foot notches in the rock that will help your feet up. The other poles will not have these little notches, so it feels a little uncertain to walk on since it’s so steep and smooth you can easily slide on it, even with good gripping shoes.
Once at the top of this steep section, you might think the tough part is over — but it’s only just begun! The trail now will require scrambling pretty much up all the way to the top. For this reason, you might want to consider bringing gloves along, although it isn’t completely necessary.
There are steep piles of bigger rocks that you will need to hike up. At times, it feels as if you’re back in that aquarium climbing up big pieces of gravel to get the relief of freedom up at the top. There is a small dip just before the one mile mark, then the trail rises steady and even steeper as it nears the summit. It’s easy to get a little off track in the last section – just keep looking for the path of least resistance.
The trail makes one final bend to the left as it leads you to the top! Take in the awesome 360-degree view of the valley, with Piestewa close by to the northwest. But make sure you pay attention to which way you came up – it’s easy to mistakenly go down the wrong trail. When you are done soaking in the views, return down the way you came up.
Echo Canyon Trail Map:
Nearby Adventures
Hike Pinnacle Peak
Mountain Bike Pemberton Trail
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Camelback Mountain Hiking Resources
Overview of the Camelback Mountain Trails from Phoenix Parks and Recreation. Best resource for the latest information on closures, maintenance and other official notices.
Please #RecreateResponsibly and Leave No Trace
The 5 Best Hikes In and Around Phoenix
Here is a list of the best 5 hikes in and around Phoenix. Everything from a simple walking route to a heart-pumping hike up a mountain.
Here is my list of the Top 5 hikes in Phoenix. Beautiful hikes can be found all throughout Phoenix. You don't even have to leave the city boundaries!
Within a short drive of the Greater Phoenix area, there is a terrific trail for every skill level.
On my list of the top 5 hikes in Phoenix, you'll find everything from a simple walking route to a heart-pumping hike up a mountain.
Check out this Quick Web Story!
Top 5 Hikes in Phoenix - Let's Get Into it
Echo Canyon Summit
Echo Canyon - Camelback Mountain
This short yet picturesque hike in Scottsdale is the most well-known and popular hike in the Phoenix area.
This trail is an intense and difficult anaerobic hike the entire 1.23 miles to the summit. It ascends approximately 1,280 ft, from 1,424 ft above sea level to 2,704 ft.
Bring lots of water, and if you're not a seasoned hiker, enlist the help of a local guide or a buddy to show you the ropes. The trek will take around 2 to 3 hours round trip.
Only experienced hikers or those in the company of someone who understands what to anticipate should undertake this trip. It's steep, with portions where you'll have to rely on your hands and feet. On the harder/steeper sections, there are handrails. These help many hikers but also add points of congestion.
The initial part of the trek is a moderate ascent to a saddle. The next section is a hard ascent up rocks that follows a wall up a series of stairs. To aid hikers, a handrail runs along the length of this stretch.
The Echo Trail is regarded as extremely tough. This hike has the highest number of rescues and deaths per year of any hike in a major urban region in the United States.
Summit Trail - Piestewa Peak
Piestewa Peak Park has a variety of trails that range from simple to brutal. Serious hikers go for the Summit Trail. It is considered the cousin to Echo Canyon on Camelback, though they have a very different "feel" to the trail and, obviously, views.
Piestewa Peak is nearly in the heart of Phoenix, and it can be viewed from almost anywhere in the city. As a result, the path to the top is quite popular, so expect large crowds of walkers, hikers, and trail runners.
You'll be rewarded with views of Camelback, the Superstitions, the White Tanks Mountains, and the red slopes of Papago Park.
The route is well-designed, with handrails in certain places to assist with the numerous stairwells. On the way back, you should expect a sequence of knee-jarring steps down.
Parking for the trails is limited. Arrive early in the day. At the trailhead, there are restrooms and drinking fountains.
Siphon Draw Trail - Superstition Mountains
The Flatiron Summit via Siphon Draw is recommended for experienced hikers in good physical condition who want a challenge.
If you're thinking about taking on this hike, keep in mind that it's a 6.2-mile round-trip adventure with nearly 3,000-foot elevation gain, and much of it is in direct sunlight. The roundtrip usually takes 4-6 hours.
At the summit, you'll be rewarded with breathtaking 360-degree vistas and a profound sense of accomplishment.
White and blue dots indicate the main trail. The path is rough in places, with gravel, and some boulder climbing is necessary.
Lost Dutchman State Park is home to the Flat Iron Summit Trail. There is a daily charge to park here. Camping in the park is a practical alternative if you want to get an early start on this adventure.
Pinnacle Peak - McDowell Mountains
This hike is one of Scottsdale's most popular and busiest. It is filled with beautiful surroundings and relative simplicity. No list of the Top 5 hikes in Phoenix could exist without it!
A slow rise up a boulder-covered ridge studded with Sonoran Desert vegetation, marked by tiny signposts, leads to a breathtaking perspective of the surrounding region. Tom's Thumb, Troon North Golf Club, and the Four Seasons Resort can be seen from the summit.
This is a 3.5-mile out-and-back trek with a 1,300-foot elevation gain. This path attracts a diverse range of hikers, from fully equipped trail runners to those out for a stroll in their flip flops, and even some pausing to practice yoga postures along the way. Depending on the season, you may see some rock climbers attempting to reach the summit.
This trek has almost no shade. It is best to start early in the day to avoid the heat and congestion.
A fully-staffed tourist center with washrooms and information is located at the base.
Tom's Thumb Trail - McDowell Mountains
The Tom's Thumb Trailhead is used by a wide range of people as a starting point for their adventures. Explorers enjoy the aerobic exercise that comes with climbing over 1,300 feet in just 2.4 miles (each way). They're rewarded with panoramic city views at the summit, which give them well-deserved bragging rights for months.
This route is 4.9 miles long and has an elevation gain of around 1,374 feet.
Set out early in the morning to beat the heat. A facility with bathrooms, a big covered outdoor space, and information is located at the trailhead.
What to Bring on your Top 5 Hikes in Phoenix Adventures
Footwear – Chacos
Hydration – Camelback Hydration Backpack (Bring lots of water!)
Camera – Canon EOS R
UV - Sunglasses / Hat / Sunscreen (there is no shade on this entire trail for the majority of the day)
NEARBY ADVENTURES
Hike Pinnacle Peak
Mountain Bike Pemberton Trail
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TRAIL RUNNING 101 - The Basics
Trail Running Basics 101. Bored with running the same old roads? Trail running opens up a whole new world for you beyond paved surfaces. As with road running, it’s a healthy, simple activity with few gear requirements.
Note: This post originally appeared on the REI.com website and has been republished here in its entirety.
Trail Running 101 - Find the Right Shoes
Shoes are the main gear consideration for trail runners. If your first trail run will be on a mellow gravel road you can get by with your road-running shoes but as soon as you encounter roots, rocks and slippery mud you’ll realize the importance of having trail-running shoes.
How are trail-running shoes different? Trail-running shoes are generally beefier than road-running shoes and emphasize traction, foot protection and stability. For a good analogy, think of the difference between tires on a mountain bike and a road bike. Within the trail-running category, you’ll find a range of shoes that are suited for everything from easy, groomed trails up to highly technical, variable terrain.
You can also choose from stripped-down minimalist shoes that give you an enhanced feel for the trail and your own biomechanics or maximalist shoes that have lots of cushioning to reduce impact on joints and fatigue on high-mile days.
Both traditional, minimalist and maximalist styles are designed to offer better traction than road-running shoes.
Trail Running 101 - Gear Up to Run
The beauty of trail running is that you don’t need a bunch of gear to do it. Going for a quick, short trail run can be as simple as pulling on shorts and a T-shirt, lacing up a pair of running shoes and heading out the door. With that said, there are several gear considerations that can make your run more enjoyable and comfortable, especially as you begin taking on higher mileage and more challenging terrain.
Carrying Water
Water is a must for all but the shortest runs. Your water-carrying options include hydration packs, hydration vests, handheld water bottles or waistpacks with water bottles.
If you’re going for a shorter run, you’ll likely be fine with a handheld water bottle or a small waistpack. You’ll be able to carry enough water for the run while also having room to store your house key, some cash, and an energy bar or gel.
For longer runs, consider a larger waistpack, a running hydration vest or a running hydration pack. These offer more storage for larger amounts of water, extra clothing, food, first-aid supplies, navigation tools and other items you may need on a half-day or full-day adventure. If choosing a hydration pack, look for a running-specific style with a narrow design that allows you to swing your arms freely.
Clothing
Your running wear should be made of moisture-wicking merino wool or synthetics rather than cotton, which is very slow to dry. Socks, too, should be merino wool or synthetic. For cool or wet weather, a lightweight rain shell or windbreaker is advisable.
Dressing in layers is a smart approach, especially on longer runs. This technique helps you manage your comfort throughout the day. You might start out cold but as you warm up on a long hill climb you can shed layers and when you cool off during a break or if bad weather moves in, you can pull them back on.
Also consider the breathability of the clothing you're wearing. Trail running generates lots of heat and perspiration, so avoid clothing that creates an impenetrable barrier. Lightweight knit fabrics work well and shirts with zippered necks give you a way to vent. Although most waterproof rain jackets are breathable, they can still get wet and clammy inside when you're really working hard. Unless the rain is really coming down, you'll likely be more comfortable wearing quick-drying, breathable synthetic or wool layers or a soft-shell jacket rather than a fully waterproof one.
Food
For runs lasting less than an hour you may not need to carry more than an energy gel or two, but if you’ll be out for a couple hours or more you’ll want to have a selection of energy food such as bars, gels and chews.
Finding what foods sit well in your tummy during a run takes some experimenting. Generally, for shorter, high-intensity runs you’ll want to stick with simple energy foods like gels or chews. If you get into running longer distances, such as ultramarathons, you may find that heartier foods like bars, nuts, peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, and other “real” foods sit OK because you're typically moving at a slower pace.
Watch
There are many options among watches, from basic sport watches that tell the time and include a stopwatch to activity trackers that monitor your steps to high-end GPS watches that track distance and speed and can be used to help navigate. Some of these devices include a heart rate monitor that can help maximize the effectiveness of your workout.
Navigation Tools
If you’re running trails in an unfamiliar area, don’t forget navigational tools such as a map and compass or, additionally, a GPS unit.
Lights
Like to run at night? A headlamp is a must. Your headlamp that you take backpacking may be sufficient but if you plan to do a lot of nighttime running you’ll want a light with a minimum output of about 200 lumens. Some trail runners like to carry a handheld flashlight in addition to a headlamp to really light up the night and be able to look around while always keeping the flashlight aimed at the trail.
Choosing a headlamp that allows you to adjust the beam shape can be helpful. You can set the beam on the wide flood setting for good peripheral illumination or change it to the spot setting when you need to see farther down the trail.
Sun Protection
Sun protection can include a combination of sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher is recommended), lip balm, hat and sun-protective clothing. Keep in mind that fair-skinned folks can get skin damage in as little as 15 minutes of midday sun.
If you spend all your time running under the protective cover of trees, you can likely use less sun protection or perhaps none at all. But if the trail will take you to an open ridgeline or the top of a mountain, be sure you’re prepared.
First-Aid Kit
The size of your first-aid kit depends a lot on the location and duration of your trail run. For runs lasting an hour or less and that aren’t too far from civilization, many people don’t carry much at all. But, if you’re setting out on a rugged trail or an adventure that will last several hours or more, a simple first-aid kit can be invaluable if you have a fall. The essentials such as bandages and antibacterial ointment for treating minor wounds and medications for treating pain are recommended.
For trail runs in remote locations consider also bringing an emergency shelter, emergency splint, elastic wrap, water treatment tablets and medical supplies for more serious injuries.
Also, be sure your kit has items specific to treating foot issues, such as moleskin, athletic tape and blister bandages.
Trail Running 101 - Decide Where to Trail Run
When planning your first outing, it’s important to remember that trail running typically takes longer than road running does for a similar distance. Start slowly and don't commit to a distance you're not ready for since the tougher terrain and undulating trails will slow you down and activate muscles you're not used to working, so start slow and don't commit to a distance you're not ready for.
Local roads and trails:
A great introduction to trail running can be found on the local network of gravel roads and dirt trails that many towns and cities have. Look for city or state parks in your area or head out on a quiet gravel road. These low-commitment outings are a great way to get used to the terrain and try out your new gear.
Guidebooks and websites:
When you’re ready for more challenge or to look farther afield than your local trails, guidebooks and online resources are especially helpful. They give you all that you’re likely to need: trail difficulty, distance, elevation gain, directions, trail features and details such as whether dogs are allowed. Websites may also include recent trip reports that may give you a sense of what the trip will really be like at the time you plan to run it. Don’t limit yourself to only trail-running-specific resources. Many hiking or backpacking guidebooks and websites offer information that can be useful when planning a trail run.
Running clubs:
Another way to discover trails is to join a local trail-running club. Many communities have these and they’re an excellent way to find new places to run as well as meet experienced trail runners who can share tips.
Topo maps:
If you know the region you want to visit and you’re comfortable reading a topo map, you may be able to choose a route based on the map details. It’s still probably a good idea to cross-reference your choice with a guidebook or website that might have more current information about the trail—maps can become out of date quickly.
Trail Running 101 - Work on Your Technique
The uneven terrain of trails presents you with different challenges than paved surfaces. Common obstacles include rocks, logs and roots. Working on your trail-running-specific technique can help you negotiate this type of terrain.
Trail Running 101 - Basic Trail-Running Technique
- Use a short stride, especially as compared with road running. Keep your feet underneath you at all times to maintain your balance on variable terrain. Don’t overstride.
- Keep your eyes down and scan the trail 10 to 15 feet in front of you for obstacles. Try not to stare at your feet.
- Swing your arms. This helps you to relax your core and keep your balance.
- Lots of obstacles ahead? Be like a goat and pick the most sure-footed route.
Hills
- When terrain steepens, further shorten your stride. Maintain your cadence by taking small, frequent steps.
- Keep your back straight. On uphills, avoid the temptation to lean forward as this can reduce your ability to breathe effectively. On downhills, avoid leaning back as this can strain your body and lead to injury.
- Super steep? There’s no shame in walking. Bonus: You minimize erosion by not bombing down steep trails.
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